Hey guys Great news, another clutch thread!!!!! Changed the clutch fluid today and cleaned out the master slave cylinder thingy which pushes the rod for the clutch plates. I have read you can bleed the clutch at the reservoir too. Now my garage needs better lighting and my eyes are not what they were but I can't see a bleeding (get it?) valve for love nor money. Where the hell is it or does it even exist? Also, the clutch slave is not OEM but aftermarket, should it still have an O-ring as it doesn't currently. Peace.
To bleed the pipework from the reservoir to the master cylinder you need a bleed nipple on the master cylinder itself which if my memory serves the standard OE doesn't have. The "O" ring is essential to keep shite from the road and chain out of the slave cylinder and the operating rod tube so I would recommend that you fit one. Andy
Yep, was full of shit/gunk like you get off the chain. At least I can stop looking for the bleed nipple that does not exist now. Cheers.
You can get a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple in it. I have one on my 916 and it makes bleeding the clutch a doddle.
bleeding the clutch aint hard without one though is it? what i mean is, do you think its a necessity? ive not had any problems bleeding it but is that just luck? now the rear brake.. thats a cvnt...
I read you should take the caliper off for the rear brake. But apparently it will only ever be somewhere between useless and pointless. When I got the bike I complained about it to the bike shop, "they all do that sir".
yea when i did mine, all new seals, lines, pads and res so a bone dry setup i got absolutely nowhere bleeding it till i removed it and put it up top on the disk then no prob... passed the mot then quickly faded away... Having said that, although it felt shit and could in no way lock the back up it wasnt till a few weeks back when all the fluid leaked out (my fault) that i realized it did have some effect.. as in low speed stuff (round abouts n what not) where i subconsciously use it. now there is truly no back brake i appreciate what little there was!
The 996 clutch master cylinder doesn't have a bleed nipple. Just crack open the bolt securing the banjo coupling on the clutch fluid hose to the master cylinder make sure you've got a rag wrapped round it and squeeze the clutch lever slightly till any trapped air is expelled. Then tighten the bolt again. Keep an eye on the banjo coupling after you've done this if it leaks you'll have to replace the 2 copper washers on the banjo coupling
When I went to visit my local Ducati tuner, on the scrounge for a s/h clutch plate for the quiet clutch mod, he told me all Ducati rear brakes are crap but he can supply a replacement slave cylinder that would actually make it work properly. I forget the exact sum he quoted but it was less than you'd expect to pay for an aftermarket clutch slave-cylinder, so a pretty cheap fix...
How tight do you do these back up? I assume you can keep going as it will crush the copper washer but you will knacker the washer.
Obviously you dont want them to leak but if you hang off them ,monkey boy,you can rip the thread out.Its kinda nip and a bit.If it weaps you can always nip it a bit more.
Do you know what size the copper washers are and also for the brake systems? Would this pack suit a 996? 140 PACK OF ASSORTED SUMP PLUG SOLID COPPER WASHERS SET + STORAGE BOX | eBay
^^^ I think those washers are too big for what you need.You should be able to get hold of them in any bike shop.
They are 10mm ID. These would do the job: Copper crush washers suit 10mm or 3/8" banjo bolt brake | eBay
I was wondering if it might be worth annealing them (heating to cherry red, then plunging in cold water to re-soften the copper) like we used to do with Triumph head-gaskets but at that price it's not worth the hassle or risk that it might not work...
Early clutches always had a bleed nipple at the slave and for me it's a necessity if you want to replace the fluid at any time plus it's quicker for sorting out air problems.
