Hi fitted new tailight as above all fine. I like the tidy rear look !!! lol 1 problem the brake light doesnt work with the engine running ? works fine with just the ignition on. Any ideas is it the canbus system ? the indicators work fine with the engine running or not, just the problem with the brake light grrrrr Thanks in advance Paul.
From the manual re Can Bus The signals exchanged over the CAN line between instrument panel and engine ECU are as follows: - Motorcycle speed (input to engine ECU) - Neutral selected (input to engine ECU) - Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU) - Coolant temperature (input to engine ECU) - Oil temperature (input to engine ECU) - Starter motor actuation (starter button) (input to engine ECU) - First level diagnostics code generated by the ECU - Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU) - Scheduled service limit (light on instrument panel illuminates) - Intake air temperature (input to instrument panel) - Battery voltage - Motorcycle model identification - EOBD light control - Immobilizer recovery - Atmospheric pressure (sensor integrated in the instrument panel). So Can Bus can be ruled out.
Sorry to bomb someone elses thread. I have an intergrated tail light in my 1098s (fitted by previous owner) For some reason recently the right indicator speeded up and the left remained at the slower more normal speed. Within days the other side started going fast too! I've got the seat fairing off at the moment re-fitting seat vents etc.... and while I'm in there I figured I'd check out the light unit etc... I haven't tried opening it so far but can see it's got a circut board littered with small resistors etc.. There doesn't seem to be a balast in-line with the wiring. I did notice that the light unit seems to have something rattling about inside, I'm wondering if the balast's are simply loose inside. :-/ Anyway, I'd ultimately like to get and stick a standard OEM lght back on the bike but I unfortunately don't have one! and after spending out recently on replacement vents etc.. I'm a little strapped for cash. Any advice on what to check to get this unit back working properly etc.. would be greatly appreciated The previous owner said it's not a cheap Chinese light he reckoned it cost around £80. I'd love to get a diagram of the light unit so that my tech mate can have a butchers. Cheers Paul
That's a fault with the light. Have you stretched the wires? When I installed my first one, the wires run right underneath the rear seat cowl peg, which when popped into place, pulled on the wires. With the second one, I ensured I re-routed the cables around the left side to hook up with the loom and cable tied it all to the frame. When you take it apart, test it all, before bolting it all back together (sorry that's a bit of a how to suck eggs comment)
Did you ever find a solution to this? I am having the same problem with my 848. Everything works fine while the engine is off, but brake light doesn't when engine is on.
Thinking about a possible reason for this but need to know. Are the lights (tail light etc.) only on while the engine is running?
The problem with mine were block resistors inside had fallen off the pcb board causing the indicators to blink much to fast.When I took it apart it was obvious that it was a cheap Chinese unit. I just replaced it with an OEM light and ran some led undicators which were slightly smaller than std but not silly small.
Sounds more like a contact thats broken or corroded , maybe the perminant live is broken? Unplug the light and Stick a multimetre in to check power is coming through with the keys out when you operate the brake. Is it the same if you use front or rear?
Everything works fine when the engine is off, so tail light is on then both brakes make the brake light come on. I used a multimeter, and the only difference when the engine is on is a slight increase in voltage across both the tail light and brake light wires, but there is still a voltage across the brake wire when the engine is on. I also tried the old OEM unit and that works fine. So I'm guessing it's the cheap eBay unit that I have got. I tried putting some resistors across the tail light because I thought the increase in voltage wasn't allowing the brake light to show up, but that didn't work either. What do you think?
I'd say that as you have eliminated the problem being with the bikes wiring/connectors. Your problem is clearly pointing towards the aftermarket tail light. So unless you understand electronic components and know how to test them that your going to be pulling your hair out trying to isollate the issue, getting the unit appart in one piece will be fun in itself. Maybe someone else who is more experienced with components will be able to advise you and find a way to solve the problem. What I can say is that inside the Chinese rear light unit that I had the PCB board was direct mounted with no insulation. I suspect the Chinese manufacturer just didn't think of the vibration from a V twin or even take into account that the exhausts are located very near by. Personally based on my experience I think the Chinese units are only ever going to work for a limited period of time, be that 2 weeks or 5 years (in my mind I think of how long a STD light bulb can last, or more to the point how quick they can fail, it's a lottery on the durability front) Having not taken the OEM unit apart I couldn't tell you what the insides are like although just holding the OEM unit screamed out how much better quality it was compared to the Chinese aftermarket. My bet is that inside the OEM unit the pcb board is mounted on some rubber isulator points to stop components vibrating loose. I'd stake money that the Chinese cut corners or didn't think of these points, it's all about catching the buyers eye for the least outlay. I could have bought another brand new Chinese unit but decided to buy a second hand OEM for the same cost and so far it's performed perfectly.
It could be a loose connection due to vibration that is actually making contact through the vibration of the engine, but the moment the vibration is not there when the engine is shut off there is no contact and therefore no brake lights.
My thoughts were that there could be an incorrect internal connection such that the brake light worked when the tail light was off but not when it was on, but if both work with the ignition on and the engine not running but the brake light stops working when the engine is running then I'm stumped. The voltage rise of around 2V should have no effect. As stated above it could be a very poor connection that ceases to contact when the engine is running due to vibration. I'd pull it apart and find out how it's made.
