What Is In Muc Off?

From memory it's mildly alkaline.

I like SDoc100. It's brilliant.

 

I wouldn't use Muc Off on any rd bike, enduro bikes yeah but even so its stained the plastics and alloy finish on my Ktm .

BMW used to reject any corrosion claims if when they asked what do you clean the bike with, you replied Muc Off .

 

Rhino Goo. Best stuff I've found to date.

 

Ditto

 

Email from M&P last night advertising:
"Muc-Off 5 litres

Safe on all parts and surfaces. Safe on anodised metal. 100% Biodegradable. Cleans on a molecular level.

Save over 50% when you buy 20L"

I'm wondering if word is getting around that some have had issues.

I used it on the alloy wheels on my car a few weeks back and the dust caps have gone whiteish grey.

 

Me too, I've been using and had some issues with staining, so its getting the heave ho.

Although expensive I got given Autoglym degreaser to try on the engine and its bloody brilliant at removing muck and tar.

Had to go through a road works where they had just re-tarred (should that be retard) the road and must have collected around 4 kilos of chippings and tar onto the bike, bloody awful and it blocked the rad fans too.

The Autoglym has been a God send at getting all the tar off

 

I wouldn't buy it anymore as it stained some fairing and bolts went white as said above

 

I use this, apparently its PH neutral.

 

http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/382A Muc off stocked CDU with LED MSDS.pdf

pH of "approx 12" is way beyond "mildly alkaline".

Use sparingly with care.

 

Hopefully the link will work. Muc Off is a strong alkali solution.

Autoglym Bike Cleaner too. It had a ph of 13 when I tested it.

Sproket Issues

 

Not half! That's nuts!

I remember chatting with a muck off rep and his sales pitch was that it was mildly alkaline and not corrosive, unlike another leading brand which was acidic and was corrosive. The obvious thought at the tine was acidic/alkalinic, both corrosive, but took him at his word on "mildly".

Never believe a salesman......says a salesman!

 

I don't know, but it makes all the chrome on my Thruxton shine and I never get corrosion. Made the mistake of believing a sales guy in a shop that a copy cat product was just as good and wouldn't harm the chrome. I tested a small bit and it did.

They didn't have any Sdoc100.

Says it all.

 

I didn't know that, I'd only use the Autoglym, where there are real problems getting crap off like tar, which Sdoc struggles to remove. Its obvious its powerful stuff.

I'm switching to Sdoc for normal use and the Autoglym as a back up for really tough stains.

I always steam the bike afterwards followed by a shampoo then jet wash with the washer on a low setting.

Horses for courses I guess

 

With most products, the way to minimise problems is to hose off the bike first, then apply the cleaner - for about 3 mins, then hose off well.

If you don't want water spots and you want the bike to dry faster; then spray with Rinse Aid (the pound shop stuff is fine), then hose off again.

 

I couldn't care less about having a spotless polished bike, what I want is a clean bike that doesn't corrode.

For protection I use FS 365. SDOC100, which I believe is a cleaner, always gets good reviews, but there is nowhere close to where I live than sells the stuff.

 

I use the ProGreen as well. ISTR Nelly saying he'd stopped using Muc Off due to its damaging things and recommending the ProGreen.

 

I've been using muc off for 15ish years (it started out as a mountain bike cleaning product) and have never had a problem.

The key with any cleaning product is to follow the instructions properly, spray it on a dry surface and let it sit too long and you will have problems, fail to rinse it off properly and you will have problems...

 

Back to the op ......…. Man juice and spiders.