Por15 Tank Kit Advice

It's very easy and everything is in the preparation. You need to take the tank off the bike and remove the fuel cap and pump/filter assembly if it is like thr 916 family. Make up plugs for every hole making sure that they are tight and fluid leak proof. I used plastic lids and Duct tape. POR15 comes in 3 parts, the first is to clean the inside of the tank and the second is to key the surface for the paint. Big caution, although neither of the first two fluids are caustic, they will strip the paint off your tank which is why your plugs need to a tight fit. After the second fluid is drained the inside of the tank will flash rust, don't worry this is normal. With the paint make sure you rotate the tank slowly to ensure the paint covers all the internal surfaces and domit for 10 minutes before you drain the left over paint. Make absolutely sure the tank is dry before you put the paint in and leave the paint to dry for the full 3 days before putting fuel in. It's good stuff and it works, even with ethanol in the fuel. Good luck and just take your time. Andy

 

I don't like to mention this, but there is better stuff out there now. Try Caswell tank sealer, from Hitchcock Motorcycles.
Using it is the same method as POR15, with plugging the openings and rotating it for what seems like hours!
Caswell is advertised as being a repair for failing POR15, so it might be worth looking into it before you use it?

 

From a previous recent thread I don't think Por15 is Ethanol compliant? My MV tank is being done with newer stuff at the moment, probably the stuff mentioned above. He says he needs to do 6 at a time as the need rotating in turn for a few hours!

 

If you do use POR15, then this is a helpful write-up if you have not read it already:

Repairing a rusty or leaking SS tank - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum

I have assumed that POR15 is impervious to Ethanol, because that's what the Frost website says (where I bought mine) and the manufacturer website confirms this:

POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer

 

You speak as you find. I used POR15 to repair a weeping 748 tank a year ago and have had no issues at all. Andy

 

I think I did my SSie tank with the POR15 about 3 years ago now, perhaps more. It's still fine. I don't know if it helped, but I did use some of the fine glass fibre mat that they provide to add extra strength in the weak area (above the tank hinge). I also tried to "stiffen" the hinge mounting itself, outside the tank, by injecting epoxy resin under it, because I think it can flex a bit and crack the spot welds..

 

The guy doing my MV tank used to use Por15 and changed for what he said was a better product - certainly harder to apply in terms of set time so he didn't do it for fun. I will ask his reasons.

 

I've used POR15 on an SS tank in the past with no problems. One thing I would emphasise though is that you really must keep rotating the tank for at least the length of time advised.
A guy I know used POR15 to treat a Monster tank then spent about £300 getting a fancy paint job done. When he filled it with petrol none came out. The POR 15 had blocked the very narrow section of the tank above where the outlet is located. The inner wall is so close to the outer at this point that it was impossible to get a length of wire in to try and break a way through the coating. He ended up buying another tank and getting the paintwork done again.

 

Oh yes, all breather holes and exits need wire in them!

 

I used the POR15 on two rusty leaking underseat petrol tanks on my lightweight landrover. It did a grand job, better than I expected as the tanks were very rusty.