Hi all, Any one got a spare friction plate for a 1098 sf ? I want to do the clutch mod to quieten the rattles! Before i get abused I love the sound of the cans and I have the open clutch case but the noise and rattles in town is doing my nut in!! Id be willing to pay and cover postage costs. Cheers
Well, since experimenting heavily with my clutch this Spring, I am now a convert to simply re-ordering your clutch plates, as opposed to adding one. It's a bit of a long story but in trying to stop my clutch dragging badly, I kept reducing the stack height more and more and then found the drag was due to the non-standard plates I was using being too tight in the basket slots and not wanting to clear as the motor warmed up. Anyway the upshot was that I ended up with a seriously low stack height. In theory, this should have led to slip but it actually didn't, it did however give me a fantastically light clutch lever - two finger light! So, I would suggest you try just putting one of your existing friction plates in first and see how it goes. Here's a video on how to do it efficiently. I use an electric screwdriver to speed things up even more. Note how little he tightens up the bolts. The magnet for getting the plates out is brilliant and even works on aluminium friction plates, presumably due to ferrous sintering in the friction material. You need a good strong magnet for the friction plates though and you really need two. The best magnets I found for this actually came from a large Sainsbury's store, they are really strong and fit in nicely. Note also how he puts the plates on the bike footrest. I put each one on there as they come off, so the last plate to come off is the first plate to go back.
How did it go with the Oberon slave? No reason why you shouldn't combine it with the quiet clutch mod...
Its transformed the bike. Its 2 finger smooth and thats with shorty levers! The only problem i had was one of the 3 threaded holes that hold the slave cylinder on was stripped. Ive got to try and get hold of some thread inserts. Might try the plate method as well and get 1 finger smooth lol
Gimlet, the clutch bite point seems to be very slightly further away from the bar. Hardly noticeable.
T That seems the wrong way round... :/ One would expect to have to pull the lever further before the clutch clears, which would give a biting point closer to the bar. He clutch lever is lighter because you pull it further to get the same travel at the pushrod.
