St2 Voltmeter Installation

Discussion in 'Sport Touring' started by MatiasH, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. As there can never be too many threads regarding installations with pics, I decided I'd just share my installation of the voltmeter. This was one thing I decided to do, even before buying the bike :smirk:

    Some of the needed parts:
    [​IMG]
    A voltmeter for testing the existing connections, a fuse holder, fuses, wire and wire protection. Some parts I thought I'd need but didn't, was the relay and relay holder and on the right side was a connector to rob from the existing relay panel. As the relay panel cover was too small (and buying a used one would have cost too much for this project), I went another route. I hate making irreversible changes if I do not have a spare part where to do those :smilingimp:

    The voltmeter can with long protected wiring, reaching the battery. Wires were for (+), (-) and Ignition on (this is why I didn't need the relay).

    So next, I checked with a voltmeter where I could get the ignition on signal fromt the relay box. As said, I couldn't use the connector because of the small size of the cover. Oddly enough, the 3A relay for the display, is continuous, but the one above it is switched of with the ignition. After checking and then some poking around with a small flathead screwdriver, I managed to detach one the cables. The cable drops when pushing from the relay foot holes. It's actually just a normal crimped head pushed in there, in the pic you can still see the left one in place. To make the change reversible, I just opened the two tabs holding the original wire, put the new wire in and crimped the tabs. Then I soldered the new wire to the head, and pushed the head back in place.

    [​IMG]

    I put that wire cover over the wire, as it will be secured in place with zipties, and I don't want sharp edges starting to eat through the wire with all the vibrations when riding. Put a small bend and a ziptie on below the fusebox. That way, the wire itself will never pull on the connector/solder. Then ziptied this along with the cable coming from the voltmeter to the existing cables on the center, and run them down to the battery.

    [​IMG]

    Crimped a ring on the black wire and run it to the (-) wire of the voltmeter, put a shrink tube on the wire, then crimped these two wires together, put the shrink tube over the connector, and used matches to shrink it over the connection (that's high-tech!). For the positive connection, I crimped a ring directly on the fuse holder, and connected the other wire from the holder to the (+) wire the same way. Connected the Ignition on wire with the wire I ran down from the fuse box, opened the nuts on the battery and placed the ring connectors in place, and put the smallest fuse I could find (2A) in the fuse holder. Ziptied everything in place and voilà. (BTW, before anyone points out, the ugly fuse holder with unprotected fuse and connector and yellow wire was the previous owners doing, mine is the black one on the right with a red wire and black heat shrink tubing...)

    [​IMG]

    I didn't want to put the voltmeter on the plastic next to the tacho (the replacement plastic is harder to find as I have the comfort kit). Later on, I also noticed that it is quite bright, so I'm glad it's not really up, as I also drive in the dark during trips. So here it is in place with 3M velcro stickers:

    [​IMG]

    And this is what it looks like when switched on:

    [​IMG]

    In addition to voltmeter, it also gives the exterior temperature which I find useful. The clock function is just a nuisance having to skip it, but overall I like it.

    Hope this helps anyone thinking of installing one, how to do it in practice. BTW, if you do not have the "Iginition on" wire on the voltmeter, all you have to do is get a relay, and connect the wire from the fusebox to the relay to switch the voltmeter on and off.

    I'm currently trying/learning to change the front tire, I may post a small thread on that aswell later on. And still need to order those belts and cables. Luckily we got some snow today, so I'm not yet desperate on going for a ride. :smile:
     
  2. I fitted one over a year ago, the blog post is HERE.
    All I used was a £3 digital voltmeter from ebay and some short bits of wire. As it is above the fuse box, and there is an ignition controlled fuse in there, it just needed a fuse fitting into a spare slot (there are a couple and wiring straight in. Took no time at all and shows the charging voltage whenever the ignition is on. Simple. No need to take any fairing panels off even.
     
  3. I actually read your blog entry and some other entries before buying my bike, and yours was one which convinced me I needed a voltmeter :smile:

    Your's is a quick and neat approach. I didn't want to put mine on the plastic as I wasn't able to find a replacement cheap enough. Also, I already had the fairings off, as I am doing other maintenance at the same time.

    BTW, I liked your hydraulic lift and the modifications you made. Actually, the LEDs with a battery is something I might need to copy :wink: I wanted a lift also, and then nearly ordered an abba skylift. The reason for not getting the abba or the lift was the expense, but mostly because I will be getting a car scissor lift, so that will probably make the bike lift obsolete. I will not have the place for both. Also, I already had a engine lift and crates, so this is my current table:

    [​IMG]

    Not that practical, but not a problem as I knew the bike will stay on it for weeks or a month or two as I want to also change the front tire and do a service on the engine and some other stuff. As said, we luckily still have snow so I even may risk finishing the tasks before wanting to put it back together :smile:
     
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  4. I would be interested to know if you have compared the readings with your current connection and a direct connection to the battery, I have one fitted to my 748 and couldn't get an accurate reading other than direct from the battery using a relay triggered by an ignition switched connection, I tried three different connections and all gave a lower reading than the direct one.
    Steve
     
  5. Birdie, Not sure about the 748 as I have not had one to study, but on the ST2 there are a number of fuses, some are permanently live with the battery and some are live with the ignition on. The only thing on any vehicle which would change the readings is the supply to a temperature or a fuel gauge, these both need some form of instrument voltage regulator as they rely on the resistance of a variable earth to give a reading.
    The readings on mine are identical connected to the fuse output on an ignition controlled fuse as they are on the battery. You do not need an accurate gauge because as long as you see a voltage higher than the engine stopped battery voltage, it will be charging.
     
  6. Matias, that looks like a great home made setup. It works fine with the ST2 as that has the added luxury of a centre stand, most of my bikes have centre stands, but the 848 does not and I am not too sure I would like to hang that bike. I do have front and rear paddock stands for the 848 and was thinking of designing some quick detachable "wheel raisers" to fit to the hydraulic lift. You can see that I get a little bored with retirement!
     
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