Ngr Clutch Slave Cylinder

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Flyboy1013, May 28, 2017.

  1. Fitted a NGR clutch slave cylinder to my 996 bled it out but just have a rock hard clutch lever tried the spacers in the kit lever just the same will not move anyone have any ideas what could be the issue
     
  2. Does your clutch pushrod have the little T bit in it? If so, are sure it went into the grove?
     
  3. Yes fitted the T bit that came in the kit can't figure out what could of happened fitted old one back on for now
     
  4. Ok. Just wondering if the pushrod went all the way through to the end stop in the cap on the other side... did you remove the pressure plate?

    Ian
     
  5. No did not touch the clutch at all just did a swop with the slave cylinder but can't get it to work
     
  6. When you replied to Bettes, you didn't say if you fitted it in the groove. Iirc. newer slaves have this piece fitted in order to prevent the pushrod from spinning. If it's not in the groove, I suspect it can't move.
    As Bettes also suggested, if you used a new pushrod that came with the slave, if you didn't remove the pressure plate when you stuck it in, it could have failed to slide into the bearing in the pressure plate properly.
    If you touched nothing but the slave and pushrod, it's very likely to be something to do with the pushrod.
     
  7. Sorry no did not touch the push rod either nor did a new one come in the kit it's seems like a hydraulic lock
     
  8. I don't think you use the little spacer, I didn't on my MY01 996.

    Did you bleed with the clutch lever or a suction thingy? Assuming you used the old fashioned "open nipple-squeeze lever-tighten nipple" the lever must have been working at one point?

    I fitted a bleed again nipple banjo in the master to get mine bleed properly.
     
  9. If you open the bleed nipple you can squeeze the clutch lever? That will release the fluid pressure.
     
  10. If your engine has 3-phase alternator, I'm sure the 996 does, then it will also have the later slave cylinder and a longer pushrod (without a cross piece) that doesn't need the supplied spacer. If the spacer is fitted you will get a solid lever.
    I had the opposite problem with my 907ie. When fixing a starter problem I had the casing off and spacer fell out of the slave and got lost. I had a hell of a job making one the right length. 1/2 a mm either way made all the difference between a clutch that wouldn't disengage and a clutch with a rock solid lever that only slipped.
     
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  11. Thanks for all the help have tried with and without a spacer supplied but lever is the same rock solid
     
  12. Thanks for all the help have tried with and without a spacer supplied but lever is the same rock solid
     
  13. If you open the bleed nipple do the lever move? Or if you remove the slave from the engine case can you use the lever?
     
  14. Yes if I open bleed nipple lever will move not tried it while removed from bike
     
  15. Ok, so mechanism all good. Pop the 3 bolts off and remove the slave and the lever should pull once at least. It may not go back normally though as no pressure from clutch springs pushing plunger back.

    If it moves if bolt back on, that will put the pressure back. Then remove the clutch springs and check again, you should be able to see the pressure plate move move outwards. Then push the pressure plate back in, should feel resistance but should squeeze back.

    When I fitted my Factory Racing slave it screwed my clutch stack height, taken ages to get it right.
     
  16. Will give that a try hopefully I can get it working as came from Germany so kind of stuck with it thanks again for help will let you know how I get on
     
  17. Maybe the pushrod has come
    You can always put it up for sale on here. Maybe if you can't get it to work for you, someone else can.
     
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