Exhaust Can Rivet Size?

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Skidmark66, Jul 19, 2017.

  1. I need to repack my cans as they seem to be getting louder and causing me aggro with various noise test guys around the UK. Can anyone who has done this advise me what size rivets I need to replace the ones I drill out. Also what size drill to use to remove the old rivets. Sorry meant to say they are just a set of carbon cans on my 998 track bike its a 50mm system. Don't know if this is relevant or not.
    Cheers
    Mark.
     
  2. I remember you asking about replacking before as I have already posted about most of the work required.

    https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/termi-re-packing.51014/#post-907885

    As for drill size you need one large enough to take the head off the rivet and no more as you might end up widening the rivet hole in the exhaust. If you get one out then you can measure the hole size.

    I can't remember offhand what size i used but they were quite large(ish!). As mentioned avoid stainless steel unless you have a very effective rivet gun as they are very hard to compress.

    The rest should be covered by the link. It's an easy enough job I found.
     
  3. Plus you'll struggle to get them out next time as the drill is likely to pickup on the rivet and spin it in the carbon, damaging the can.

    I've done a few Termi cans, can't remember if they were 5 or 6mm rivets, drill them out then measure the hole. Make sure they're long enough to get through the band, carbon and can with enough left to get a good grip on the can - maybe 10 - 15mm sticking into the can before riveting?

    My best tip for can packing is to wrap the new wadding/packing in aluminium (plumber's) tape, this gives an extra layer of protection to the carbon for when the wadding burns out but, more importantly means you can form the whole thing to the right size/shape to slide it back into the can easily.
     
  4. Drill the head off with a 5 or 6mm - the head will spin loose before you go through the can itself.
    Punch the remaining bit of the rivet into the can so you can get them all out.
    The holes can be IIRC is 4; 4.5; or 5mm - I think mine were 4mm but as I was re-aligning the end caps I used a 4.5mm drill bit.
    I also used stainless steel rivets - tip; stick some 2" tape around the hole where the head would sit, but not so it is under the head of the rivet when done. This is because even with a decent riveting tool it can 'bounce' and hit the can as it snaps the rivet stem - you do not want little scratches or dot punch marks from the last bit of the stem or from the tool.
     
  5. Red998 got all that and already ordered the stuff from acoustafil just wanted to know which drill size having never done this before.
    Thanks for the info guys
    Mark
     
  6. Well I ripped the little puppies apart today and fitted the itchy stuff inside all went well just got to fit them to the bike now.
    For what its worth the job was a doddle.
     
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  7. Well what can I say first outing after repacking the cans and she blew 100db at Cadwell without baffles:astonished:
    Have to say that the accoustafill stuff works a treat will have to see what its like with baffles but that will be next year now as im done with track days for this year.
     
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