Carby 900ss High Level (superlight Style) Exhaust - How To Get One?

Silmoto will be your best bet. Full system at £900-£1300.

 

Mmm, OK, not what I'd call economical.

The downpipes/collector are the same as the standard SS, but the SL and FE silencers have longer/different shaped pipes attached. The brackets are different of course because with a single seat unit the shorter brackets replace the rear footpegs.

There are a few aftermarket silencers about that mimic the SL/FE design, they come up on ebay occasionally for a lot less than £900, or perhaps a wanted add on here might produce some.

These are genuine FE silencers on my current 900/966 Mongrel, which are a bit long in my opinion.

For a comparison I picked up the complete FE system on ebay for a total of £90 inc postage. The only other thing I had to buy was the brackets.



Nasher.

 

Perhaps not the least amount of money, but in terms of ability to bolt right on and have them fit without too much faff then I'd stand by that. I've been looking at high level systems for both my 750 and 900 carby and really mint systems just don't come up often or cheaply. You might get a pair of cans here, some bracketry there or a set of headers somewhere else but knowing that they'll bolt right up and work together puts a different spin on things.

You could get a set of high level Termi cans here
You could get a high level SIL carbon system here
You could get a high level SIL titanium system here

My 750 has got low level Scorpion cans on that sound nice, look OK'ish and don't mess with the pillion set-up, my 900 has got a set of 851/888 spaghetti headers modified to fit the 2v heads and with a pair of high level Termi cans on, they foul the rider footrests and don't have pillion provision... so I've been looking myself in quite some detail, as I'd like both bikes to end up with Termi' or SIL end-to-end, fitting and jetting all tickety-boo.

If you're very lucky (like your FE set-up Nasher) or prepared to fettle then it can be done for a less shocking cost, doing it right with mint parts that fit and work and don't compromise other aspects of the bike costs a horrible amount of money IME.

 

When I got my carbed SS 750, it had poorly fitted Lazer fixed link pipes and cans - they came from a 750 IE SS - I made the hangers to support them properly and turned the end outlets in the cans so they pointed in the right direction.

Eventually I changed the anodised aluminium can tubes and fitted carbon fibre ones instead.

To get the bike through MOT because I still had the dual seat, I used a spare pair of riders footrests fitted to suitable stainless spigots which screwed very quickly into the hangers instead of a bolt.

If the OP can source something similar at much less than half the cost of new stuff, I can provide the hanger details.

 

Steve Bailey makes SL link pipes http://bbbfabrications.com/

 

This how mine progressed:

 

And the brackets to replace the rear footrests.

That's where mine came from, because for the price it wasn't worth me making them.

Nasher

 

BTW - My hangers are 4mm stainless steel; with an anti-vibration bushing, making three parts in all (excluding the bolts).

 

They look really good, was it much of a job? , I have the same Laser cans on my 900, they were perfect until recently when some idiot kicked one whilst getting on his bike and scuffed the aluminium , where did you get the carbon tube from?, thanks Mark.

 

IMO the best sounding cans are Sil. I have a full system which wasn't economical and is not quiet. You'll be very lucky to get a cheap standard SL setup. Your best bet may be to buy high level link pipes and make up something. Scuse the dirty bike.

 

Actually, I made my hangers before Steve Bailey was doing his............I gave him the design for my hangers (which he modded to suit all carbys.....I also designed the footrest risers he sells...It is my 750 in his pics.

 

http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/

Electric drill and rivets; plus a bit of thought...........Ask questions if you need to.

 

Great, thanks for the link.

 

As regards Steve Bailey's link pipes I can tell you I have one if his frame braces for the headstock and the quality is very good. No experience of his exhaust link pipes. You would probably just use a generic can with them. Find out the diameter of the pipe and get a can to fit. Don't think you could use the standard ones without modication to the existing link on them as they are designed to for the standard headers only.

If you do go with the assembled can using component parts you would need to consider how to mount it, probably using a strap and hangers that are made for the high levels pipes. You would also need to make sure you got a reasonable length otherwise it'll stick out the back past the number plate, which doesn't look the best.

 

In the first of my three pics, which is how the zorsts looked when I bought the bike; the cans had a black paint finish which I guess was supposed to be a crackle effect; but they looked awful and they were scuffed. I took a chance that the cans were originally anodised aluminium from Lazer; so I used some Nitromors on them and worked quickly. Luckily under the black was red paint which came off with white spirit and brake cleaner. Yep, anodised aluminium underneath it all; even so they were still showing some of the deeper scuff marks / scratches, but I left them like that until I had sorted everything else.

As mentioned, the Lazer cans and link pipes were fixed / welded; so there wasn't much room for adjustment. I made some thick cardboard templates of the hanger shapes I wanted and tried the fit - the cardboard was strong enough to hold the lot in place.

Once I was satisfied I had the shapes right I drew the hangers in AutoCad as 3mm thick stainless steel items. There is the hanger; the connector which bolts to the original Lazer can and a top hat bush which fitted in a grommet so they can all connect together.

I took the Cad drawing to a friend who had a CNC machine and programmed it in - then I let the machine do the cutting.

Bending the main hanger and the connector was a b*****d as having been cut flat they had the potential to go out of shape. Fortunately they came out OK. Then they were polished using an electric drill in a vice.

However, I made one slight error - although they had been designed at 3mm thick, I decided they would be better at 4mm. That threw the angles out a bit and the connector which is quite small needed clamping in a vice and being given a clump with a sledgehammer to correct it.

Fitting the system worked out well and no real adjustment was necessary - so all I had to do was drill the rivets out of the end cap outlets; then turn them so they pointed rearwards instead of inwards. I used the same rivet holes in the cans to drill through the end caps and re-rivet them.

When I changed from the aluminium can to carbon I got two carbon tubes from PJ Engineering plus new packing and the stainless end straps.

The carbon tubes are not lacquered so there is a seam along them which I knew needed to be turned to the inside so it couldn't be seen.

I dismantled the zorsts and found inside the cans there is a large metal plate which has the mounting bolt holes in it - I decided to reuse it inside the carbon tubes for strength. I marked the mounting holes and the rivet holes by measuring them from the ally tubes and predrilled all of them. Be careful when doing that. I also made a stainless steel curved plate to go on the outside of the carbon tube where the connector fits - you can just see it in the bottom pic. I riveted the outer plate; the tube and the inner plates together.

I wrapped the perforated inner pipe and then fitted the carbon tubes to the fixed link pipe inlet caps; Finished off by riveting the outlet end caps. Drilling the shiny end straps is a pig because the metal is quite thin.

Job done.

 

I explored this a little while ago using some MTC stainless cans and some high rise link pipes. The biggest ball ache was getting the pipes at the same height and the same distance out from the swinging arm.

Suffice to say I failed big time to sort out those issues, and in the end went for a mid level style using some monster link pipes I had in a draw.

 

I have a pair of silmotor carbon cans on my monster at the minute but they were originally ss cans. I'm going to be selling them on if your interested buddy, could work if you want to have some modifications done to the link pipes.