1000ss Sidestand

Every time I use the sidestand on my 1000SS I think it's going to fall over.

It's too short, and is almost vertical and tucked under the bike in use.

I'm assuming the 750SSie and 900SSie are the same.

So has anyone used a different model Sidestand to get some peace of mind?
If so did you use the matching bracket or just the stand itself?

I should have a 900 Carbie stand, and possibly a 900 Monster one around somewhere which I might try.

 

Thanks Chris, I need to do some investigation.

Be interested to hear how you get on DanSS600, I think I may end up making something myself.

 

I dug out the old Carbie SS Sidestand I have, and despite it probably being better in respect of actually holding the 1000SS up, it is of course set up to work with the old style bracket and older 2(not 3) wire sidestand sender. The plunger type rather than rotary.
Which isn’t insurmountable, with a bit of welding/machining etc to the bracket and bolt, but I’d like a bolt on solution.

I also realised that the fairings of the 1000SS probably make it look like the bike overhangs the stand more than the naked M1000, which doesn’t help.

With a good dose of ‘looking at it’ and measuring, I’ve found that the stand on my M1000 uses a similar but not exactly the same bracket, but a completely different shaft which is curved outwards with a bigger foot.
The Bracket and shaft are different in that the spring and its bracket post, is behind the shaft on the M1000 and in front of the shaft on the 1000SS. The Sender vice versa.
Both use exactly the same Sender, and searching from there it appears that the ST4 uses the same stand and bracket as the M1000. But not the ST2. I still need to check the Multstrada 1000/1100 versions.

Crucially the outside edge of the M1000 stand foot when extended is @40-45mm further away from the centre line of the tyre contact patches. And is a little longer as well.
So the M1000 doesn’t lean over any further, but the stand foot is farther ‘out’ from the bikes centre of gravity than the 1000SS.

When I get a chance I’ll swap the M1000 stand on to the 1000SS to see how it sits in relation to the footpegs, exhausts etc when folded, and check it’s not going to stick out too far and reduce the lean available to a better rider than myself.
But I do expect to be keeping an eye out on EBAY for a M1000/ST4 etc stand and bracket.
There are a couple on there at the moment, but I want to do the test fit before spending anything.

Nasher.

 

Wow WAH900SS, that's exactly what I'm looking for, but I must give you something for it. Message incoming shortly.

 

An update on this.

The stand arrived from WAH900ss and I tried it on the bike.

The difference in the way the bike is supported is quite significant.
With the original 1000SS stand and Bracket the bike leans over at @15degs, measured with a gauge on the fuel filler cap, but more significantly the foot of the stand is roughly under the middle of the fuel filler cap.
So the bikes centre of gravity, which I assume is somewhere around the base of the vertical cylinder, is very close to being over the stand foot and it really wouldn’t take much for it to fall over. A little soft ground or a little bit of a slope and it would be over.



With the M1000 stand and bracket the bike only leans over @8degs, but the foot of the stand is under the outer edge of the tank, so it would appear to take a lot more additional lean for the bikes centre of gravity to go over the foot of the stand.
The @8Deg lean is still significant enough for me not to be worried that it will fall over the other way, away from the stand.



But with the bike on the Monster stand I realised the difference in orientation of the two stands was going to mean some additional work, which soon turned into a lot more work!

 

The 1000SS stand has the spring at the front and the rotary sensor at the back.



The M1000 stand has the spring at the back and the rotary sensor at the front.



On both bikes you can start the bike with the stand down, but if you try putting it into gear with the stand down the ECU cuts the ignition.
Both bikes use the same 3 wire sensor, but as it had been moved from behind the stand to the front it was spinning in the opposite direction, and the ECU was cutting the ignition with the stand up, not down.

Comparing the 1000SS sensor connection with my M1000, and some investigation with a Multimeter, I realised that the two wires in the M1000 loom connect to pins 1 and 2 of the sensor cable, and on the 1000SS it’s pins 1 and 3.



So it appeared to be a simple case of moving one pin in the connector hanging off the 1000SS main loom from pin 3 to pin 2.
A simple thing to do with the right tool to release the crimp, and being a Superseal 3 way I wasn’t worried as I have lots of Superseal connectors, crimps etc hanging around as I use them on boat wiring projects.

But I had already noticed peering down behind the fairing that there was a little bare wire showing at the connector on 1000SS loom.
When I reached down and unclipped it I was shocked to see the insulation on the Black(-ve) wire was actually melted, and there were signs further up the outer sleeve that it had got hot and melted further up.

I started cutting the outer sleeve back and knew I was in for a little disassembly and a blob of solder or two when I got to this stage:



At which point the outer sleeve with it’s two internal wires disappeared into the main loom under the ECU.
The Melted Black insulated wire is just an earth, so I could have cut it back and ran an additional wire to the connector, but those sort of bodges having a habit of coming back to haunt you on a dark rainy night in the middle of nowhere.

I had to remove the Battery, Fusebox and holder, ECU and bracket, then cut back the sleeve around the main loom before I found where the wire had connected to the network of other Earth wires, and luckily the melting didn’t appear to go any further into the loom:



I didn’t take any more images, but to tidy up it was simply a case of cutting out the remains of the burnt and corroded original wire, and removing the crimp from pin 3 of the connector.

I then soldered a new piece of wire to the earth network joint, wrapped it in tape, then added a new crimp to the other end and was just about to push it in to position 2 of the connector before I remembered to remove the other wire from the connector and put both cables through some new sleeving before pushing them into positions 1 and 2 of the connector.

Once the main loom was re-wrapped, and everything put back in place the bike started and stayed running when put in to gear with the stand up.

 

Just to close this out as I was wondering how the overheating had happened.

I've been told on the UKMOC site that if there is a failure of the main earth cable to the frame one of the shortest routes for the current to take when you push the starter button is through the sidestand switch, and of course the cable isn't meant to take that load.

Because of the corrosion I'm happy that the overheating happened a while ago, and one of the first things I did when I got the bike was to change all the main cables.
But obviously I'll be checking the Earth cables later today.