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1098 1098/1198 Conversion

Discussion in '848 / 1098 / 1198' started by big thumpa, Aug 21, 2015.

  1. Hi its me again :confused: as some may know i need a new engine for my bike and i dont fancy another old 1098 motor so found a nice low miles 2010 1198s engine .
    So apart from the harness and exhaust what do i need to change and how much is envolved in swapping think the throttle bodies are same just not shure what else i will need to change or how much a challenge it will be eg electrics and immobiliser
    Hoping someone has done this already or is it just wishful thinking hehe
    thanks again stu
  2. TBs are bigger. Wouldn't know if yours would transfer over with the inlet rubbers.
    Immobiliser wont be an issue are it's the key linked to your dash.
    Ecu would need a re-flash.
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  3. And if you went with the 1198s (2011) Wiring harness one, wouldn't you be able to add TC, if you wanted it?
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  4. Only if you have a dtc dash, ecu from a dtc equipped bike, dtc box, front wheel sensor and bracket.
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  5. Oh, and front disc dtc bobbins
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  6. Got the engine home this morning 600 mile round trip looks like new well chuffed So let the fun begin
    Can i fit the engine using my original loom the guy who sold me it reckons that would be my best bet and would only need change harness if i wanted to run traction control as @bettes had mentioned
    so far in trying source two exhaust header pipes and get a ecu organised next week
    confused over the throttle bodies as there all listed as 848/1098/1198 so are they all the same ?
    cheers stu
  7. You may get lucky with the loom.
    The 848 and 1098 ones are defo different, only slightly in the starter circuit. I'd try yours and see first :)
    Was that the 1198 engine on ebay?

    Lots of things are listed on ebay as 848/1098/1198, often not right.
    IIRC the 848 TB are the smallest, the 848evo went to the same size as the 1098, the 1198 are the biggest.
    Maybe check the part numbers?
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  8. Yeah engine was on ebay leamington spa very nice guy called chris
  9. If you reflash the ECU to an 1198 map then you will have to do a mod to the wires going into the ECU.

    The starter signal is sent via different wires on each bike and you will get an error of 19.2 on the dash.

    I need to check the wiring diagrams to identify what needs to be done.

    You would be best having the Lamdas disabled in the reflash as the 1198 mapping uses 2 and the 1098 uses 1. The loom will only allow 1 to be connected.
    #9 chrisw, Aug 22, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2015
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  10. If you retain your 1098 loom and reflash to 1198 mapping (with lambdas disabled) you need to do the following

    The ECU connector bases are coloured, Grey = Body and Black = Motor

    On the Body side ECU connector you need to identify the wire that goes to pin 1. On the 1098 this wire goes to the starter relay but on the 1198 it is for one of the lambdas.
    On the Motor side ECU connector the pin you need to use is not connected. I can let you have a suitable wire/connector to insert. The pin you need to identify is pin 26. Pin 26 on the 1198 loom goes to the starter relay.

    The mod that needs to be done is to cut the wire going to B1 and then connect the bike side of that wire to the new wire at M26.

    The wiring will then be configured to work with the 1198 ECU.

    The single lambda should be removed and the hole in the exhaust capped with a 18mm exhaust bung.

    Ignore what the pins are connected to in the below image. The pin numbers are the same layout on the IAW5AM ECU

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  11. Great info Chris!
    I went through this last year with my aborted engine swap. I ended up buying another loom!
  12. Thanks for your help that would be great if you could help me out with a connector @chrisw . I was going to give you a shout about My ecu again.
    I would be considering changing looms but at the moment just like to get it running again without having to change it . waiting on exhaust headers and trying to source 1198 Throttle bodies at the moment
    cheers stu
  13. A loom from a later bike 1198 or 848 EVO would make the job easier.

    Taking the ECU connector apart takes patience. On the older bikes Ducati used a gel substance to waterproof the connector. This needs removing to do the job. It can be removed like a 'bogey'. On later connectors Magneti Marelli introduced a silicone rubber sealer.

    I should have some photos saved to show how the connector comes apart.
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  14. Just been havin a little tinker this morning my throttle bodies fit straight onto the 1198 rubbers so do i try these first before ordering another set ?
    I peeled back some of the wrapping on the wiring to the ecu connectors for a look so pretty confident i could change them over done a pin change before but it was a fireblade

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  15. 66mm for 1098 ,71mm for 1198 i reckon i need the 1198 bodies theres shurely going to be a performance drop £200 for a set complete with airbox aint to bad
  16. Man on a mission...:upyeah:
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  17. Awhh tell me about it mate :Arghh:
  18. Thanks for the image. It would appear that Brown is the new Black.

    The connector in the image is the Motor one.

    Top left is Pin 10 and top right is pin 38.

    The pin out you need to identify is 3rd column from left 3rd down. Pin 26.

    The cam mechanism can be removed by rotating it until the retaining lugs line up with the keyhole apurture. Once lined up lift out sideways both sides.

    The cap of the connector slides off. You need to push from the end where the wires enter. At the opposite end there are two small lugs either side. Whilst applying a little pressure to the cap, prise the lugs out slightly with a flat blade screwdriver and the cap should slide off.
    #19 chrisw, Aug 23, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2015
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  19. Cheers chris managed to get the connectors open for a look pin one on body side is blue and black as picture
    and highlighted 26 motor i take it the white bits is the sticky stuff you mentioned





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