hello everyone, new to the forum question is, I have a 2000 748 biposto , and going over a few things, can someone tell me if the red indicator (battery , charge light) which is on the instrument cluster is actually working on this model, or ??? cant get to much info on this. Im sorting out a few directional signal issues and while Im there, cant figure out how this indicator should work. There is a bulb fitted there, and what looks like a red/white wire, and I think a blue wire, I think I read somewhere that it is no longer used?? is this accurate?? Also what should I be getting voltage wise while the bike is idling? at the battery thanks
Welcome Dave. I'm sure someone will be along in a little while to help but in the meantime why not introduce yourself properly in the newbies section.
That red light is empty on my 2 bikes ( no wires or bulb ) I thought that might be spare for a alarm Edit: just googled it and yes it is a charging light
Early single phase bikes have a connection from the regulator/rectifier DC side which is red- white, brown IIRC and you will see the red wire on the DC plug of the regulator rectifier, there should be 0v when the engine is running. The light fitting should be red/white and blue as indicated. Voltage at the battery when engine running and no lights should be >13.3v <14.5v on a healthy system with the engine on fast idle. Whilst you are down there inspect and clean the regulator plug with the two yellow wires and the dc plug with red, red/white and brown. The key thing is the two yellow wires have to have very clean/very tight connections otherwise they will burn out and will take the regulator and possibly stator coils with it - consider removing the plug and soldering through joints if the plug contacts/or yellow wires show any sign of overheating, use heat shrink insulating tubes. If your voltage at the battery is much lower than 13.3v you need to check the ac voltage between the two yellow wires coming from the engine alternator stator. Basically the reading across the two yellow wires should be approx. 35vAC at 1500rpm, 70vACat 3000rpm and 140vAC at 6000rpm, much less than that and you will need to check your stator
thanks , all good information, I have already bypassed the three yellow wires and removed the plug, Seems someone was already in there , with some conductive grease in an attempt to correct something or prevent something. I do plan on doing a further inspection on all the connectors as you have suggested. I did notice the voltage was less than you mentioned, however my test was done with a somewhat less than accurate digital battery charger, and I was showing approx 12.7 while running at normal idle. which Im sure is not accurate. I will check with my fluke meter this evening and get an accurate reading . In the event I need the stater , what type of job am I looking at? thanks in advance I had a Ducati years ago and seems old habits die hard, I know this is a 2000,. but as much as I am an exotic enthusiast, I can't help but to mention , Ducati should sit down with Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha and most certainly Suzuki, but then what fun would it be to own a Ducati,,lol
Bill, if there are three yellow wires you have the 3 phase alternator system fitted to later bikes which did not have the circuit on the 'gen' light, odd that you have that part of the loom at the clocks. Is the yellow wire plug three wires in and out and when you "bypassed it" do you mean just cut the plug out? The voltage readings on each pair of yellow wires are different for thee three phase 520w alternator, at 2000rpm the AC voltage between each pair of yellow wires should be around 27vAC+/-10 and at 6000rpm the readings should be 78vAC+/-10. If your fast tick over battery voltage is indeed 12.7V my money is on a fecked regulator/rectifier as that is a given if the AC connector plug had burnt out pins in it. Three phase systems in good order will read 13.6 to 14.6v at the battery (with no lights on) when the system is running 100%
Agree with almost all of this... Just one thing though - I would use properly crimped and heat-shrink covered bullet connectors instead of soldering, two reasons. I think soldered joints are susceptible to vibration (plenty of that on a Ducati!), and if you want to take the joint apart to do further investigation (e.g. measure the alternator output) it's much easier to unplug bullet connectors than "un-solder" the joint. Just my 2p. A question - if the regulator plug with the two yellow wires does go bad (or indeed, if one of the wires breaks), why might this damage the stator? Andrew
The poor contact causes resistance and as little as 0.5ohms has a heating effect which causes increasing resistance and more heat, eventually you end up with a smoking connector or wire, major imbalance of loads on the rectifier/regulator as well as a stator getting damaged. When the wires are soldered or have a clamping connector installed the regulator runs significantly cooler due to no additional resistance. Personally I would not use bullets, but they are better than the original plug when installed correctly. For the three phase 520w system, contrary to popular opinion, the wires are adequate (everyone seems to ignore three phase electrical theory) but fail due to the resistance build up when the contact is poor
yes, when I said I bypassed it, I meant, cut the connector out, soldered the joints together , shrink tubed it with potting compound shrink tube, which encapsulates the joint with resin, thats the only kind I would use, maybe not the best, but most certainly better than the plug. I must mention, the connector did not look over heated, but did feel "loose" or less than perfect. Yes it was three wires, and yes the bulb in my instrument cluster is there and has two wires going to it. I find this a little strange , is the first thing I thought about the old car days where the light "exited" the field , but that does not apply to this, I suppose,,,lol
yes, when I said I bypassed it, I meant, cut the connector out, soldered the joints together , shrink tubed it with potting compound shrink tube, which encapsulates the joint with resin, thats the only kind I would use, maybe not the best, but most certainly better than the plug. I must mention, the connector did not look over heated, but did feel "loose" or less than perfect. Yes it was three wires, and yes the bulb in my instrument cluster is there and has two wires going to it. I find this a little strange , is the first thing I thought about the old car days where the light "exited" the field , but that does not apply to this, I suppose,,,lol
