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2012 Multi Shock

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Beef, Aug 3, 2018.

  1. As my riding is pretty much 2up touring, I wanted to get stiffer springs fitted - so far, so good.....

    Can I get the bottom bolt out the shock? :mad:

    I have tried a rattle gun, a 1.3m knuckle bar, applied heat from a hot air gun and all I have achieved is breaking 3x allen sockets!

    Anyone else had this issue? Am I left with drilling this out -it's already a deep recess, there's way too much to go wrong :confused:
     
  2. Try and find a manual, I don’t think it is but could be left hand thread
     
  3. Yes, I went through all that on my 2010. I ended up cutting the bottom bolt out with a reciprocal saw. Details are in this thread about 2/3 down the page.
     
  4. Yes, I had the same problem. I tried all that you have done and ended up cutting the bolt out with a reciprocating saw. Details are in this thread about 2/3 down the page.
     
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  5. what about a good old fashioned impact driver. we still use them at work all the time
     
  6. I tried that. It just rounded out the hex in the Allen bolt.
     
  7. sorry, but you need to use a decent hex bit. ducati's are made out of cheese and should never win out. also, try a bigger hammer with the impact driver lol
     
  8. Read my report in the link above. The bolt is a a hex socket head at the bottom of a blind hole. The head of the bolt is sliding fit in the hole and corrosion between the bolt head and the alloy swinging arm seizes it solid. Believe me I know what I'm doing with stuck bolts. If you haven't experienced this yourself you have no idea how bad it is. A local dealer deals with these by removing the swinging arm complete with shock and sending them to a local engineering firm who has set up a jig to bore the bolts out.
     
  9. Hi Derek, I’m a tad confused by how you said the bolt head sits directly against the shock eye - so is the bolt unsupported at the head end? :thinkingface:
     
  10. It's hard to describe without a drawing. The hole on the inner side of the swinging arm is a (tight) clearance fit for the bolt head - all the way through, so that the head of the bolt bears against the bushing in the lower shock bearing. So the shock is clamped to the outer side of the swinging arm with the bolt head supported by the hole through the inner part of the swinging arm. It is this tight fit which caused difficulties further on in time once corrosion gets in.
    Here is a picture of the bolt after I had removed it and the lower bearing from the shock.

    [​IMG]
     
    #10 Derek, Aug 6, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
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  11. Thanks Derek, a good friend has offered to put my swing arm on his mill at work to drill the bolt out (he is very skilled with milling machines and lathes)

    I just need to get the swing arm out!
     
  12. I suggest that once he has drilled the head off the bolt he tries the next step with a left hand drill. Once I had cut through the bolt on either side of the shock and lifted the shock out the remaining part of the bolt unscrewed quite easily. A left hand drill might produce enough torque in the unscrewing direction to start it unscrewing.
     
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  13. Looking at your picture, I am guessing that it is laid out in piece order so that the head is on the RH, piece in the shock middle?
     
  14. That's correct. The shock bearing is above, it has 2 top hat bushes in it, one from each side. I destroyed them cutting through the bolt.
    Here is a picture of the assembly. The bolt bears against the inboard top hat bush.

    Screen Shot 2018-08-06 at 14.32.57.png
     
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  15. Thanks again, I'll keep you informed..........
     
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