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1200 2013 Exhaust Recommendations

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Xtourer1200, Sep 16, 2019.

  1. Hi all,
    Just acquired a fantastic 2013 1200s,
    Did a few hundred miles on Friday and love it. It all ready has a few extras but looking at changing the exhaust and after somd recommendations please.
    Thanks in advance
     
  2. Hi, I had similar thoughts when I went from my loud SV1000 to the 2013 1200s. It seems to make any sort of performance or noise improvement you need to de-cat, re-map and spend north of a grand! I've just got used to a quieter exhaust and instead enjoy the induction howl when you get over 7k and open the throttle. Getting he exhaust de-flapped with an eliminator fixed some lumpiness for just a few quid.

    And by far the best upgrade for me was to remove the barn-door fairing screen which just bounced my head around and fitted a small Pikes Peak style WRS screen. Stops all the buffeting for £60 ish. Moved the gear lever all the way down to avoid the false neutrals, rear brake lever all the way up to make the best of a bad set-up. Then just get some hours in the saddle!

    Oh and at 15 stone, 6 full turns in on the front suspension made a big difference to front end stability. Not sure if real or placebo but worked either way!
     
    #2 Mark_h, Sep 16, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2019
  3. Get a loud one!
     
  4. You need to get the decat pipe as well as the end can, as the standard end can is just straight through and all the baffling occurs in the big lump behind the engine. You don't need to spend over a grand, Mivv and Arrow both do decent full system for about £600-700 notes. Or you can just keep your eyes peeled on Ebay for a second hand one, but they don't seem to come up too often at a decent price. Its a worthwhile upgrade to save the weight and the potential issues with the exhaust valve, however you can get a Duc-EE for about £50 to sort the flapper issue.
     
  5. Its very real ..... makes a huge difference to the front end handling of the bike and transforms the front from a bouncy castle to very controlled ;)
     
  6. I see a few dodgy looking no-name ones on ebay but rarely see anything I recognise for the 2013/14 models. Lots for the later ones but very few that look real for the 13/14 models. That said there is a seller selling arrow ones at the moment. Any idea if they are any good or just cheap and loud? Do you need a re-map too?
     
  7. I started with an Arrow on my 2013 MTS, but found the mid-pipe placed it too close to the rear wheel then got a really good deal on a Mivv that included a new mid pipe. Both sound similar I reckon. The Mivv has been good....loud enough without being too loud.
     
  8. I have the arrow and it is really really close to the rear tyre, concerned me quite a lot if I'm honest. A good few miles down the line and keeping an eye on it and it's never come into contact,. Its so close to allow fitting of panniers, which I don't believe you can do with a lot of the mivv exhaust.
     
    • Nuke Post Nuke Post x 1
  9. looking to keep the cat, so looking for a termi if anyone has one for sale.
    Prefer to keep a stubby exhaust.
     
  10. Honestly, if you're going to spend that amount of money, why not make it count?
    Consider getting some light forged wheels. Your bike will handle like it's 75 lbs lighter.
    Want engine performance? Add a Rapidbike fuel controller. You'll be amazed at the newfound torque, power and throttle smoothness.
    A quickshifter is also a nice performance upgrade to consider.
    You do have a 42T rear sprocket? Right?
    Spend the rest on a brake fluid pump and buy the good stuff that has a high temp wet boiling point like:
    CASTROL REACT SRF RACING BRAKE FLUID or Motul RBF 600 if you want to save a few quids.
     
    #10 DarR, Jan 17, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2020
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