Me again... Was hoping to change the idler/adjuster bearings whilst on with the belts change. Both adjusters have come off easy enough but I've hit a bump in the road. Both idlers have two circlips visible. I have removed the smaller, inner clip hoping the roller would slide off the shaft with the hex head. It's not budging. Is this how it's meant to come off or is the removal of the hex bolt . Haven't tried anything serious atm.
No. Engine in frame doing belt change. Nothing else. I bought the bearings anyway. Was hoping that the idler rollers may (with inner circlip removed) just need a bit of slight persuasion to slide off. Didn't want to create another job if that's not the way forward. If push comes to shove, they can stay there. Feel absolutely fine ....it's just that I've new ones to hand whilst the covers are off.
Sorry about that. Once the circlip is off you may need to use a bearing puller. If you don’t have one the local shop could probably do this for you for not much. If your really sure the old bearings, Spin freely and smoothly, with only a tiny amount of axle play, also that the front seal looks sound, probably ok to reuse. It’s surprising how long they last.
Brilliant, thank you. I do have access to a puller so I'll give it a tentetive go. Douse them in easy oil first. You are right about longevity, this would be their first change in the 11 years I've had it !!. Thanks again
I can't remember exactly how I did mine but I think it was more 'old school' than a puller? i.e. a hammer & drift to get the old ones out but, done on the bench after removing the assembly from the head - easy enough to remove and use medium loctite when refitting. I don't see how you'll do it on the head because, IIRC the bearing comes out of the pulley and the bolt will be holding it in so you need to push it out from behind. New one in by heating up the pulley/freezing the bearing and a little bit of light encouragement as per removal.
Just double-checking here I haven't yet touched the hex bolt in the centre of the pulley and I wasn't going to.I was thinking the pulley (inc bearing) slides off the the hex bolt when you remove the inner circlip -the smaller one. Is that correct or not ????
Honestly don't remember how it comes apart but I'd not even attempt it unless I had the assembly on the bench, away from the head. I seem to remember it wasn't complicated but I'm fairly certain you won't do it whilst still bolted to the head and, it's only one bolt to remove it.
You need to take the idler off! You cannot change the bearing when it's on the head. The circlip holds the bearing in place, the other side has a shoulder. Take the idler off, remove the circlip and press out the bearing from the opposite side of the circlip.
That's a bummer but thank you for the update. I think I'll let sleeping dogs lie on those two then. The current ones are running smoothly and the vertical cylinder access has problems written all over it. Thanks again to everyone for their help.
Having got the bearings and given the unknown age, service etc. I'd be changing them, it's not a difficult job. Those bearings last well but think of the environment they're in - high speed, running constantly at high temperatures on a sealed (unlubricated, other than what it was made with) bearing. Maybe overkill but I've changed mine a couple of times in 27 yrs/53k miles, both times they looked OK but for the price of a bearing, it's cheap insurance. I had a slightly loose bearing on my Monster's belt tensioner, now they don't have the retaining 'lip' as there is no actual pulley, the belts just run on the bearings so, aren't as good at tracking the belt but when I removed the covers, there was a fair amount of rubber dust from where the edge of the belt had been rubbing.
I have just talked myself out of poking the bear although your comments make absolute sense. Getting the hex bolt out of the vertical cylinder looks like a pain (engine still in bike). It's not the cost, I have the bearings already (Exgie kit). Don't suppose you know the tightening torque for the idler hex bolts at all and it they need loctite. May need to mull this over a beer or two
Cheers mate. Horns of a dilemma now. I hate doing half a job too The H cylinder is easy to get to...almost begging for replacement. Seems like the answer is right in front of me. I think I need a beer assistant. ...
