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900ss Seized Bolts And Steering Head Question

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by ck_uk, Feb 10, 2019.

  1. Hi all

    Got some problems as follows, any advice greatly appreciated.

    Hydraulic Clutch Slave

    Trying to remove the slave - one bolt is seized (head has gone), don't know how to get this out. Not had any luck with bolt extractors in the past. It's the one on the left, really awkward.

    clutch slave.JPG

    Sidestand

    Trying to remove this and again another bolt where the head has turned to putty and I can't seem to remove. Has anyone overcome this one before, what can I do?

    sidestand bolt.jpg

    Steering Head

    Having removed the top bolt and top yoke, is there a special tool need to remove this 'nut'?
    With the top yoke in situ, the steering head felt really 'notchy' and my first though is that it will need a new bearing race. However, with the top yoke removed, the notchiness is no longer present.
    But since I'm at this stage, I might as well replace with new internals anyway - is this a difficult/costly job?

    headstock.JPG
     
  2. Ck, on the first one the usual way of doing it is to get a tight fitting torx bit that needs to be gently hammered into the remains of the cap hex, it must be tight to start with and when it is driven in it forms its own socket. Once it is in you can try a convention socket wrench or T bar or an impact driver. If you have a fine soldering blowtorch, with the torx or original allen bit in the screw cap you can try putting some heat into the screw as well. You may want to consider loosening the other two screws so that the master cyl can move a little whilst the stuck screw is being attempted as the movement of the master cyl will allow a little more freedom for the stuck screw to loosen.
    On the second one it is simplest to hacksaw across the centre of the screw to create a flat screwdriver slot. You then need the largest screwdriver bit that fits that slot snuggly and carefully use an impact driver to free it off. Again a precise soldering blowtorch should be used to get some heat into the screw. A good one is available from machine mart which has the precision you need https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbt...MIkrSbpe-w4AIVirXtCh1qZAdzEAQYAyABEgKWrvD_BwE
    The trick with these is not to rush and do the preparation work. If you use an impact driver it does not need a big hammer, again be careful.
    On the steering stem there is a box spanner that can be used for this or you can try it with the correct size of c spanner. You will need a box or specialized socket spanner to do it up if it needs a specified torque setting.
    Good luck
     
    #2 Denzil the Ducati, Feb 10, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
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  3. I'd be more worried about the apparent frame crack on the l/h frame tube. For the allen bolts give them a good crack inside the allen 'hole' with a punch then try to hammer in a torx bit to try to undo, if that fails you may have to drill the head off the bolts then they should be loose enough to undo with pliers or the like.
     
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  4. Also it can help to actually tighten before loosening as you're cracking the bolt while placing load on the opposite faces. Depends on context of course, and if you're a numb gorilla with tools then it mightn't end well... but if you soak with penetrating oil, leave to seep in and then apply pressure progressively you'll often have success with this method.
     
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  5. Thanks all for the quick replies and the excellent tips, once again I feel privileged to be a member of this forum.

    NZDave well spotted re the frame, I've just had a quick look and it *seems* to be a deep scratch, but will investigate further..
     
  6. This is a known problem with these frames, unfortunately.
    If the scratch starts at the end of the welded in gusset, it is almost certainly a crack.
    Ducati actually gave me a replacement frame for mine but those days are long gone now I'm afraid.
     
  7. Likely that the fluid in your clutch reservoir will have a black tinge. The black rubber seal is available at Stein Dinse.
     
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  8. Don't bother with that tool - it won't work when the top yoke is in place and that is when you need to adjust the nut.

    My advice is to tighten the nut with your fingers; then fit the top yoke but don't clamp it up yet, just do the clamp bolts up until they aren't floppy, then use a push bike C spanner on the nut which is now under the top yoke.

    Actually, if the threads are clean you can almost do the job with your fingers rather than using any tool.

    Tighten the nut until you get resistance, back it off a quarter of a turn; tighten the yoke clamps.

    Check to see if there is excessive play when you push the forks back and pull forward.

    Check to see if the forks will flop to either lock when given a tap in the straight ahead position.

    If there is no play or the forks don't flop; slacken the top yoke clamps and back the nut off a bit more.

    There should always be a tiny amount of play otherwise the steering will get notchy and you run the risk of weave.

    AL
     
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  9. Here’s a test on penetrating oils, interesting, it definitely helps but not as much as I thought it would.

     
  10. A final question on this (I hope!)

    It looks like I need to replace the bearing races(?), which sit at the top and bottom of the steering head tube. What is the correct way of doing this - should these just 'drift' out?

    This will be the final step before getting the frame blasted.

    Again, some horrific photos..

    IMG_7342.JPG IMG_7354.JPG IMG_7357.JPG
     
  11. Yep, drift them out, but do it so you knock them out evenly all round the race - ie; at 180 degrees or opposite each thump if you know what I mean. If you are blasting and powder coating, protect the race seats though. Some people leave the races in and knock them out after the processes. Others make up bungs.
    Keep the old races to help knock the new ones in - clean them up a bit though.
     
    #14 Arquebus, Feb 18, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2019
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  12. All sorted, I followed your method Al. I was just a bit nervous as this is new territory for me.

    The frame is now with the blasters; I picked a local chap who has been in the business 30 years. He has special bungs for the head and I trust he'll do a good job.
     
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