996 Brake Pedal Removal

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Expat Jack, Jun 5, 2020.

  1. 83EF7ED3-402D-42B0-A0A5-3CB15D8FB63D.jpeg E7E1E68E-4A64-44A6-87E5-ED2965D3D927.jpeg 591E7F2B-3807-49FD-B9D7-97BD636DFF9B.jpeg Help!
    I am trying to change the brake pedal on my 996.
    I can get the rear master cylinder bracket off the engine mountings. I can remove the circlip and pin. I can remove the return spring. But, I cannot get the front bolt out per pictures. Should it just pull out or is there a knack to removing it?
    TIA.
     
  2. Never taken one off but looking at your photos and also at one in the flesh it should basically just push out. Suggest there might be some slight wear causing a ridge internally and it might need a little tap through with a pin punch or similar, certainly doesn't look like any corrosion problem.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  3. Is all the tension off that spring? If not that is most likely your problem from what I can see.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Unclip the lever return spring tang off the pin.
    Then the bolt should pull out. Give it a wiggle, it’s quite long.

    I did this just last week on my 749 which is basically the same design and didn’t need to detach the whole assembly off the engine case.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  5. Jack, I had to wind it out as it is a tight fit in the bush, it is in effect a plain bearing that takes quite a load when you brake hard with the back wheel, just needs a bit of gentle persuading. Make a mental note of the spring arrangement to simplify reassembly
     
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  6. Thanks both. I did take the rod out and remove the spring But it is tight.
    I will try and pull it out, or failing that press it out from the thread end.
    Appreciated.
     
  7. Gentleman's persuader aka the Birmingham Screwdriver.
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  8. Morning all.
    Got the pedal off this am. 10 minute job.
    I found the best way was as follows:
    1. Remove spring return from pin
    2. Remove circlip from pin (I had to file down the ends of my cheap pliers to ensure they engaged properly. When engaged it’s easy)
    3. Undo brake lever m10 pivot bolt with master cylinder still attached. Use lever to pull gently as unwinding the bolt once threads are free of engine mount hole after fully disengaging mc pushrod.

    To refit I had to remove the rear m10 bolt and use a hammer to tap the pivot bolt through its bush and o ring to ensure enough thread was showing to engage with engine mounting hole.
    Tighten to 29nm.
    Rear bolt I used medium thread lock and tightened to 41nm (recommenced is 43nm plus permanent loctite - my bolt had no loctite on removal).
    Reconnect spring, refit pin and circlip.

    Pics to help:

    806EA8F9-5D13-4140-AB40-5B9E8A7A47FF.jpeg 15D5AB71-F06E-4F74-9333-9E1CA5DF401C.jpeg 3DCFC1D6-AAE9-4590-90A0-51E1986D3C25.jpeg
     
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