evening all Popped down to lougi moto yesterday on my travels and picked up an alloy subrame to replace my biposto one. Apart from the obvious part of losing a few kgs, I thought the seat unit would fit better on the subrame it was designed for... Lowering the gap between the termis and the bottom of the seat unit. Well, got it all bolted up this aft and it's worse (higher) than it was before. Can anybody tell me if there's something wrong here? Thinking about it, I'm wondering if I've got the latch brackets mixed up? This is how it was with the biposto subframe And this is how it is now with the alloy subframe. Thanks, Ian
Latch bracket looks OK (same as mine) but the gap does look a little wide at the rear, is it possible the exhaust brackets are too low (try tilting them forward/backwards and moving the bands a little to raise the cans slightly) or that the mid pipe is too high/cans not pushed into it far enough?
Thanks mate. I have tried to pull the cans up and re tighten them but the gap's just too big. Had thought about making new exhaust hangers to bring them closer. I'll get stuck in tomorrow morning and see what I can do... If all else fails, I'll cut the latch holder part off the subframe and try lowering that. What do you reckon, @Dukedesmo ? Thanks
Looks OK to me mate think the alloy sub frames were always a bit higher I had the same on my 748 track bike when I switched sub frames.
Thanks Ali. But it doesn't do much for me stuck up in the air like that. Preferred how it sat with the steel subrame. In fact, if I can't lower it an inch or so I'll put the steel one back on and chop that one down to get it lowered. Have you got the toy home yet?
Not yet bud, spoke to the guy today and doing the deal Monday. Would have done it today but my mate got knocked of his bike yesterday so couldn't get in his work shop. Don't worry if post pics ASAP mate.
@Dukedesmo, one thing I forgot to mention is that it's a 54mm system. Would that make any difference? Did they angle the can pipes further away from the seat unit for heat dispersion?
They are like that as standard. My SPS seat is quite high above the pipes and you will get a bigger gap. The steel subframe will always give a neater fit and depending on how you fit it any spacers can be custom made to give a nice clearance over the pipes. The down side of an alloy subframe.
I think the actual cans are the same on all Termis whether 45, 50, 52, 54mm etc. only the pipes are bigger up to the can. Of course there may well be slight variations due to size/who made it etc. and race bikes wouldn't have a hinged seat or latch so could maybe be fitted lower? The gap does 'taper' wider at the end of the exhaust though, now that I've looked closer at my 916 (50mm pipes) it's not that much different to yours, maybe a little less 'air' to be seen but I did have to fit spacers between the reflector and the light unit so that it didn't foul the cans maybe indicating it being lower? I don't know if there are any variations of subframe that are higher or lower in the latch?
The 998 mono subframe could be different, and on my 998 the Titanium Termi's are slightly longer than the Carbonfibre ones. Certainly the steel 998 subframe is the same as a 996, including provision for the 996 ECU.
Brilliant! Thanks to both of you. I've had a good look this morning and have come to the conclusion that as said above, that's the way it is height wise. I took the latch bracket off and removed the lock from the subframe. Doing this I could get the seat unit lower by about 10mm but the problem is the seat unit then starts to lift at the front hinge. Didn't have time to go any further but looks like the rubber feet on the seat are touching the subframe stopping the seat unit dropping further. I think I'll be able to get it lower by shaving a bit off the feet and fitting the lock lower. Thanks for your help. Ian Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The seat pad rests on the subframe using the rubber blocks. You could look at the fact that the seat moulding is really only a cover to hold the pad in place. You could shave the rubber blocks but that will only lower the seat a small amount. For taller riders the seating position can be a bit cramped and I have seen various methods used to raise the seat including double thickness seat pad rubbers and also a riser block for the front hinge plate. I raise the front of my race seat by using such a riser block on the front hinge because I am quite tall, but I leave the rear, which locks on a steel subframe, in the normal position. It's difficult to lower the front much more using a stock seat pad but altering a mono subframe, probably by a cut and shut method could see the rear of the mono seat lowered to the same as using a steel one. Exhaust mounting would need to be checked though as the method is different slightly from Mono to Bip.
Nice one, red. Putting a spacer between the front hinge and seat sounds like a good idea and easy to do. I'll take the tecnosel seat off and take it from there. Thanks, ian Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok. Cracked on a bit today. Removed the seat pad and put a spacer between the hinge bracket and the seat unit. That seems to have worked as after removing the 2 foam pads between the seat unit and undertray, there's no more rocking at the front of the seat unit when pushing it down at the back end. Also, the seat unit lines up miles better with the Airbox sides. Going to make a proper spacer out of 10 X 10mm ally bar. I'm thinking about cutting the locking pin off my spare latch bracket and fitting a longer pin to it. That way I can fit the catch lower than they normally sit by fitting it underneath. At least this way I won't have to butcher the subframe. Happy so far.
Sorted. Raised the front hinge bracket by welding a 10mm strip at the bottom and drilling the 2 holes 10mm lower. To get the back end right, I ended up cutting the exhaust hangers down and drilling a new hole 10mm lower. There's about 5mm clearance between the top of the cans and the heatshield. Need to take them off again to clean the edges up but all sorted.
