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998 project

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by 748 fidler, Dec 29, 2012.

  1. Hi all I've got it stripped for service and clean up plus a few random little jobs,

    but can't decide if to do fork oil and seals myself or just drop the forks at my local dealer ( moto Italia )

    whats the going rate for a dealer to do a job like that these days ? I know I could just ring em but want to know what a sensible price is before I say yes really....


  2. Do the forks yourself! Looking at what you've already done you seem to know your way around a tool box, forks are pretty easy to do.
    If you don't feel confident someone like Colin at 100% suspension charges about £100 for fork service.
  3. Thanks,it's just the amount of time I am spending in the garage that seems to be a increasing topic of conversation with the wife at the moment if you no what I mean. I need a trip to moto Italia to pick some belts ect up anyway so will ask how much.
    but the £100 I save doing it myself will pay for new cush bushes I need.
  4. How did you get on with getting the font injector off?

    having a pig of a time getting this off to get the airbox/tank base off - any pointers, as they little plastic clips seem a bit fragile?


  5. Make sure u have a cloth in the intake trumpets before u start any work in the air box so nothing ends up getting dropped in them , that's tip number 1 !
    i got the injectors out ok but yea the tiny metal clips on there conecters are a poor idea,a small electrical screwdriver + magnet is what I used.
  6. Cheers, inlets stuffed with paper towel and airbox off to carry on with the fettling.
  7. Did my fork seals today,what a crappy job! Oil every ware & struggled to get the new seals in straight at first.
    hope I won't have to do those again anytime soon.
    painting swing arm and taking shocker off to clean up next so at least that will be a " look what I've done job "

    • Like Like x 2
  8. I feel your pain on fork seals, went through 4 sets of seals, 2 sets of forks and still didn't cure my old GSX from weeping. Will go with paying to get done and hence warranty when mine need doing.

    well done persevering with it, and hope they stay sealed.

    Out of curiosity, what are you painting the swing arm with, and what colour?

    will start getting photo scrapbook together on my winter clean up of my 998 (not as a p****ng contest, you understand, just to keep a record and know what goes where and be able to look back and say "how did I let her get that bad?")

    keep up the good work.

  9. There's a bike shop near me that does forking seals for £50...Money well spent IMHO...:upyeah:
  10. Just before I put the oil back in and the top caps back on the forks can anyone tell me if its normal to not need the "flat washer tool"when stripping/rebuilding these forks ? i made and used the clamp tool that stops the centre pin turning.
    I just cant understand what the washer is suppose to do.
  11. Any progress on the completed fork seals? Any more photos of the ongoing work?
  12. Ive got the forks back together but... ive put at crack in the bottom yoke over tightening it. i have got some pics but the uploader seems to be faulty.
  13. Oh dear - doesn't sound nice, hope you get a replacement part cheap enough.

    broke a few bits n pieces during my fettling, but nowt that big just yet...
  14. think my mate is going to TIG this up for me

  15. how could you manage to break that?
  16. I just nipped it up with an Allen key socket on a 3/8 ratchet ,not even that tight and I heard a click. closley followed by a loud "shit" from me. Il have to check the torque settings in future.
  17. My mate recons he can TIG weld it no probs
  18. Make sure he uses the correct filler rod. Think most pressure or sand cast parts are usually made from an LM24 type ally or derivative. Some have magnesium mixed in which causes no end of issues including bursting into flames if there is a high ratio of magnesium alloyed into it. If incorrect rod is used you can further weaken the casting and/or cause an electrolytic type reaction between the casting and the weld that'll look crap even if you smooth/blend it in and blast it to make it look like its surroundings.
  19. Thanks for the info as I know nothing about TIG ect so will pass it on when I hand over the yoke. My mate is a pro alloy welder on the local steel works & also does some work for a BSB team so hopefully he may be as knowledgeable as you mate ! Thanks again
  20. I'm sure he'll be on the ball then. I've done a lot of TIG welding in my past but mainly on hardened tool steel moulds and dies. Ally is trickier though not impossible to get as near perfect or original as intended. Just needs care.
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