So I bought a Draper adjustable c-spanner as I thought it would do both the shock preload and the chain adjustment, but its too thick for either! However trying to get the spanner in there I can see there's almosr bugger all room to turn it even if it did fit! Is there a specific c-spanner that will work in that tight a location? I think I saw an Ohlins one somewhere that had two tangs (forward and back adjustement without reloval of the tool) and it also looked narrower.
Ohlins tool is a push-pull version and is thin sectioned. Don't know about 848 but it works on a 916, on which access is tight. They're not expensive from Harris performance. Also easier to use 2 if you can when tightening/locking the rings together.
Only way I found of using a C spanner on the 848 shock was to remove the cans and down pipe. You can adjust using a drift (screwdriver) and hammer....This will mark the ring of course.
Screwdriver with a bit of cloth over the ends is my method of adjustment. You just cannot get in to adjust it with the cans in the way and I am too lazy to take them off !!
Ah - ok. Will try the screwdriver & cloth option. Do they have to be really tight when you lock them back together?
Same problem with the SS..........Luckily I had my shock off, so it was a bit easier........In fact it was a lot easier. I could take the tank off, though..........That would allow access. Anyway, when you do lock the rings together using whichever method you need to do it, try to get the notches lined up and then add a blob of paint to each ring in the opposing notch, then you can do a quick visual check to see if they have loosened. AL
Ta guys. Bugger. Couldn't get it lose and lost the bottle incase I did some damage. Might try something less likely to take chunks out of the bike before I give up. AL: Mr Ducati already put some paint marks on it for me But they didn't budge when I was whacking it with the screwdriver
A brass drift with a slightly tapered point is the best thing to use if hammering the rings, failing that a 5mm screwdriver with the point squared off completely and a slight curve bent into about the first 25mm from the end is useful....you can turn the bend, so it sits flush with the lugs and then trun the bend the other way as the notch gets further away, so it does the same. My Sachs Boge shock has aluminium rings........you should see what a screwdriver tip used by a previous owner has done to them! AL
The cans and down pipe will take you 20mins to remove. Worth it iMO if you're trying to back that pre-load off.
I'm giving it a good wash today (several hours of fly carnage to remove from yesterdays run) so perhaps I should take the cans off while I'm doing it. In for a penny and all that.
