Any one suggest a alternative to Allen keys? They seem to chew the nuts and bolts far to easy...had to dremel a seat bolt off a year old gsxr 750..... bloke in a local service bay told me Allen keys are generally crap and I should invest in decent gear... recommendations anyone
If a screw does not move with a sensible amount of torque the an impact driver will normally move the screw without damage. If you are doing the belts on a two valve then to loosen the tensioning pully you should always use an impact driver.
T-Handles are great for everyday use. The shorter part in the handle is cut flat, so you can get plenty of torque to undo/tighten bolts with a positive fit. The ball ends then make the spinning out/in of the bolts nice and easy. Just remember not to torque on the ball end as you run the risk of rounding or shearing the ball off! You should also get a set of allen sockets to use with a ratchet drive. This gives you much better control and access where the T-Handles can't get to. You can also use these with a torque wrench for all those critical applications. If you get really fancy, you may find you also need a set of long-reach ones as well as some allen heads around the engine are difficult/impossible to get to using both standard allen head sockets and T-Handles! Allen keys are only good for Ikea furniture and emergencies! :wink:
As a general tip, investing in decent quality tools is always a good idea. Things that you use over and over need to be of good enough quality that they don't fail after a few months/years of use. This is why professional mechanics spend thousands on their tool kits, and also have tools that are many years old! There's nothing wrong with the Halfords Professional range for the amatuer mechanics / self-servicer / tinkerer. They are cheap enough that you won't question the cost, easy to get hold of and have a decent back-up guarantee to replace any broken items. Personally I like the Teng range as these offer great value against quality. There's also an old saying: "You can buy better quality than Snap-On, but you can't buy more expensive..." :wink:
the Teng stuff is excellent. I've used it in the workshop for 10years now and all i've had to do is service the rachets. I use the very same T-handle kit listed above and it's took some serious abuse. Allen keys have their place in a tool kit. Like everything, buy good kit and it'll last you a life time. I have two sets of Facom keys, used daily, and have had them 'bout 15 years. Occasionally they've had the tip ground up, but that's all. The only stuff i've had fail without serious abuse......Snap on wouldn't waste my money on any more of it.
Poor quality tools could cost you more in the long run. I snapped a hex socket trying to undo a sump plug a couple of years ago. The end was then stuck in the sump plug...bloody nightmare to get out. BTW, it was a Halfords tool.
Just don't lose the receipt. I bought a small 1/4" ratchet drive as it is a perfect fit for adjusting the TPS screws inside my airbox, a couple of years down the line and the ratchet's broken but they won't change it because I've not got the receipt. If it really is a 'lifetime' warranty why should I need the receipt to prove when I bought it?...
I'm interested in buying a long 4mm Allen key to undo the lower front Allen headed bolt that attaches the air tube to the airbox on a 749/999. My T-bar 4mm key is too short to undo them! I'm currently using my J.C.B electric screwdriver with the appropriate 4mm tip, but would really like to buy a long screwdriver type tool about a foot long that you can put different tips into . Any ideas?
Option 1: Buy a single 4mm bit and use it with your existing socket set - a long extension and a driver handle. 4mm HEX KEY BIT ALLEN Socket 10mm Hex Drive 75mm long | eBay Option 2: Buy a long-reach 4mm driver for your socket set. FRANKLIN 100mm LONG 4mm HEX KEY SOCKET ALLEN 3/8" DR | eBay Option 3/4/5: Buy a set containing your preference (or both!) so you have them in the future.
Excellent antonye The first option you proposed was exactly what I want, didn't know they existed, so many thanks, much appreciated.
Usually use the hex bits that are included in my 1/4 inch socket set. However I've got a rounded off hex bolt holding on the metal exhaust guard, managed to loosen the bolt half a turn before it rounded entirely. Now I've had to put silicone around the bolt head to stop the whole plate from rattling! Not bothered tackling it just yet as I don't have a bolt to replace it with!
I have a set of these on the wall Buy Hex Keys & Sets 8 piece T-handle metric hex key set RS REK56198RS online from RS for next day delivery. Again, used every day and they are ideal for getting the screws out of the air tubes etc. Tbh, 9/10 they are my choice for allen screws in most cases.
One of the principal problems with undoing threaded fasteners of all descriptions, months or years after initial assembly is that of corrosion in the thread. Applying Copperslip* along the thread before assembly will ensure for a much easier life at disassembly time. *Coppaslip and many other brand names also available
Borgo I learn't from a learned member on the other site that copperslip should only be used where heat is an issue, as it can encourage or aggravate 'Galvanic reactions' where differing metals are used. Having said that I have been using it for years in my ignorance of that knowledge! I do however, since my enlightenment, use a smear of grease, it's just seems bad mechanical practice not too
