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Another St4s Immoblizer Issue

Discussion in 'Sport Touring' started by mgrover, Dec 27, 2019.

  1. I have a 2001 st4s that cranks all day long but won't start. It started perfectly about a month ago but now refuses. The immoblizer light is solid red which I assume means ENGINE DISABLED.

    So the best thing really is to nuke the immoblizer completely. I've seen that ducatidiag is whats used and you need a particular cable. Is that cable just a OBD2 cable since I have one of those handy and if I could ignore that and use my OBD2 wifi dongle thatd be even better.

    Cheers

    ps anyone know the procedure to start with the key code? I have that but don't have the red key :(
     
  2. Imho, you need to do more than just assume the immobiliser is activated before going in any one direction.
    Do the basics first, such as determine if you have fuel and or a spark.
     
  3. Isn't that what the solid red light means though?
     
  4. Hmmm. Looking at the threads linked to here, your bike has a very different set up to my 999, so that may well be the case.
    @chrisw is your man, he switched my ecu to immo off - top bloke :)
     
  5. So I've read a few forums already on the matter and heres what I've gathered.

    1. Fuelling is fine because I can literally set the injectors spraying fuel from the airbox(pretty cool)
    2. Crank position sensor is fine because when I crank the tach bumps slightly and when I take it out its completely dead
    3. Immoblizer is actually already disabled so not an issue at all.
    4. Its not the side stand because if I disconnect that it won't even crank.
    5. My bike has had some questionable wiring done to it by previous owners, they've hooked up the fan to a manual button so it can be running all the time.
    6. Not sure if my ecu is dead at all? I managed to connect with jpdiag and dump its contents so I assume its fine.
    7. I've tried other plugs with no luck
    8. Battery is on permanent tender atm since its not used
    9. Killswitch seems properly operational since its showing different states in jpdiag
    10. No codes in jpdiag aside from the U1600 which is to do with immoblizer which is dead anyways and unplugging the immoblizer isn't yielding any change :(.
    11. Although my fuel gauge looks like this:

    https://imgur.com/a/PlB3cip

    And theres images of the "interesting" wiring.

    12. Tested all fuses at the front of the bike and they all seem fine

    Not sure what else am missing tbh.

    Thanks :)
     
  6. Have you tried cranking with the plugs out and earthed to see if they are actually sparking?

    Are they wet when you take them out?
     
  7. Yeahh thats how I've been testing them. Not soaked but slightly wet
     
  8. any more symptoms like - when it last ran did it run completely fine, did you change anything or any event between when it ran fine and now? Was there a period when it ran rough or did it just stop running altogether? how is your starter sprag, is it noisier than it used to be, is it struggling to churn engine fast? Are you happy with battery condition, are starter leads standard or uprated?

    Edit - I see you mentioned battery at 8/ but can't rule it out yet - might be worth attaching a secondary battery but don't forget if you use a car DO NOT have the car engine running at any time.
     
    #10 Chris, Jan 5, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2020
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  9. Connecting a 2nd battery is a good shout as when my battery was fooked, it didn't have enough power to crank the bike and fire the coil packs.
     
    #11 Robarano, Jan 5, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2020
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  10. It's a brand new battery since old one died I bought this one, rode it for a couple of weeks and put it on tender and it's been under cover since.

    I fired her up about a month ago, everything ran perfectly. It was to warm her up mostly since she'd been sat.

    It's never ran rough. Just no spark at all right now.

    It cranks hard till it runs out of juice so it's on charger again.

    Starter leads seem standard but I don't really know. I'll have to test the ht leads and go from there
     
  11. Two things that may or may not help.
    1) The ECU has a power saving function, so if the bike isn't cranked 10 seconds after turning the power on, it'll crank as much as you like but never start.
    2) Even if the battery is new, a battery optimiser may not put out enough current to actually charge the battery. My bike will crank and crank when the battery goes down slightly, but again not start.

    Can you take the battery off and charge it using a charger, not an optimiser, and try it again?
     
  12. Sure. That first one actually caught me out a couple of months back I had to take battery home charge it and return it

    I'll attempt to charge battery. Currently the bikes a naked
     
  13. anyone know how I can confirm the ECU is working correctly? Will being able to connect with jpdiag and dump it be suffecient?
     
  14. have you tried a second battery jump yet?

    I think you are getting warm as regards the additional wiring, does the malfunctioning fuel gauge coincide with the non-starting? Do you have an aftermarket alarm fitted - maybe the additional wiring is linked with this?
     
    #16 Chris, Jan 8, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
  15. what engine and ecu does this use? the fiat ecu? if so. i have some expeirance with this fault.
     
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  16. Nah picking some leads up and am jumping it off a Range Rover battery, it can turn a V8 am hoping a V2 should be no problems. Ill give that a shot tonight.

    996 engine and IAW 59AM ecu.
     
  17. i think thats the fiat ecu. cant mind, its been a while.
    jack it up at the rear,take the plugs out and connect them to the leads, earth them out. slip it into gear, turn the rear wheel. if your getting a spark. new starter required
     
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  18. Ill give that a shot after the jump thanks
     
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