Basket Case

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by ck_uk, Dec 10, 2019.

  1. I found a spare clutch basket (my original was starting to show wear), but it has surface corrosion.

    What would be the best course of action to sort this? These parts seem to be anodized, so would it be a case of blasting and re-anodizing?

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  2. If that is rust and the basket is steel, I would be surprised if that was anodised.

    The oxide layer that forms on iron or carbon steel is rust, which readily flakes off and actually promotes the corrosion of the underlying material. So an anodising process for steel would not be terribly useful.

    Assuming I am right and it is steel, then finish looks very similar to gun blueing.....which does protect against corrosion until the damp gets in or it gets worn off.

    Blast it by all means but proper hot blueing is expensive; although it can be cold blued much cheaper, but it isn't as good; plus both finishes need added protection from an oil film.

    But then, what do I know about it? I don't know if the basket is steel or aluminium.
     
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  3. Thanks - I've no clue either as to steel/alu, but it weighs in at just over 1.1Kg, if that helps. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.
     
  4. A magnet is your friend here :upyeah:
     
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  5. A good friend sticks by you no matter what.. :)
     
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  6. ........you are made of
     
  7. Good magnets to have are those found inside a normal size hard drive......I keep all mine after breaking the case open.

    Mind the skin on your fingers if you put two together.....
     
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  8. If the basket is steel, I suppose that finish may just be because it has been heat treated and quenched in oil, but I wouldn't like to do that myself......specialist needed. Heat treatment for strength rather than finish, maybe.

    Very similar result to gun blueing though.

    If it is steel cold blueing is an easy DIY option.

    Protecting the finish would be difficult to maintain same as straightforward heat treatment protection.
     
  9. A Fender Stratocaster pickup seems to confirm that the basket is steel.
     
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  10. Wire wheel on a drill or grinder?
     
  11. Anyone else think that the ridges/valleys in the slots are quite bad wear marks. That would make for a less-than-lovely clutch operation. Perhaps that's why it was removed and put aside to rust away slowly...
     
  12. It actually came off a 900ss engine from a Bimota. The wear marks are nothing compared to my old basket. If this one can't be salvaged, then I'll invest in a new basket and plates.
     
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  13. Grit blast (+ bead blast maybe) followed by zinc+passivate...?
     
  14. Man if you think that's bad you should see mine! Still works fine although the clatter is really bad.

    I'd happily take that basket if it's up for grabs any day ;)
     
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  15. It doesn't look too bad, I wouldn't invest in replating. You would be better off just buying a new one. Clean it up and use. It's got plenty life left in it, I've seen a lot worse. It's also a great upgrade to replace a steel basket and clutch plates with Alloy, as you will save mass where it counts. This is only when your basket and plates are really worn though as it's costly doing it all at once. I still have a steel one though, cause I love that noise!
     
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  16. I am contacting Wallwork to see what they've got to say about the matter. Thanks Sev.
     
  17. It would look pretty good if nickel plated.....not too expensive to do either.
     
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  18. Out of interest, and sorry if this question has been asked before, but is the rattle greatly reduced with the use of an alloy basket accompanied by the correct plates?
     
  19. IMO the alloy ones would be a bit quieter than steel, but it would wear quicker.

    Withe regard to the plates wear marks on the steel one, if they aren't too deep, they may clean up with a decent sharp fine file.

    Personally I'm glad mine ran in oil, I hate unnecessary mechanical noise on a bike or car.....;)
     
  20. Wallwork were quick to respond and offered the following choices - both at a similar price of around £60 plus shipping costs. I'm thinking the latter if anything, as I don't like the sound of basket distortion.

    1. Tuftride process, matt black finish
    + gives some wear resistance
    - requires a temp of around 580c so possible movement dimensionally.

    2. Cold Chemical Blacking, matt black finish oiled to prevent corrosion.
    + no movement dimensionally
    - easily scratched

    Thoughts?
     
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