I've got a general question regarding a battery problem. Bike inadvertently left with ignition key in the 'park' position, and the battery drained completely. However, when I removed the battery from the bike and hooked up to a trusty CTEK XS800 charger, it wouldn't recognise the battery (presumably because it was completed drained). I used the trick of connecting the battery terminals to those of a previously used, older battery, which actually had some life left in it. Reconnecting the CTEK to the 'dead' battery, it was now able to charge it (amber light). I left this for about 5 mins, then switched off the charger, disconnected the initial battery to battery connections, then switched the charger back on and got the amber light again, so left to continue charging. However, after many hours of charging I noticed it was switching between green and amber every few seconds. I've never seen this before; once the battery is charged the CTEK just stays on green. I've tried to research what this means, but couldn't find information. Does this indicate that the battery is faulty? I'm wary of reinstalling it. How can I check that it's a healthy battery?
user manual mentions it http://docseurope.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/13d8/0900766b813d8f11.pdf I'd say it's fooked and get a new one and I pressume it's doing this?
Have had this problem . Not specifically with this battery charger but same type. They are reliant on having some charge in it to recognise. I have used old style battery charger to force some charge into it usually at 1 or 2 amps, then go back to the other charger. Running them completely flat does do them in and it will not come back as good as it was before.
For the cost of a battery do you want to be stranded at the side of the road for a few hours. Ruin a day/evenings commitments??...all for £70-100
Three reasons for the battery charger doing that, battery has a failed cell, its sulphated or it has cell short. All three mean you need a new battery now or very soon. The charger instructions include some info on flashing lights.
Once a motorcycle battery has gone below 10.5V it will loose some of it's cold crank amp capacity. https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html It's called damaging deep discharge, note that 75% of the chemical energy of a fully charged battery is still present, but just not usable....well may be to charge something on USB. In another thread(s) I've covered this, so I'll have a search and put up links. Consider batteries as a consumable or service item, like brake fluid, oil, filters and windscreen wipers. Yes, you can get longer out of them, but always at a cost. Something like this is the only way to quickly and easily test if any motorcycle or car battery is going to be ok. Make sure it's been off charge for a few hours preferable over night. Check the CCA or Cold Crank Amps marked on the battery label or website. Attach the leads and check it stays at or within the CCA band on the scale for around 3-4 seconds. Even a new battery will slowly drop, Do not repeat the test within 20 minutes. Do not run the test until the battery or tester explodes... about 10-20 seconds.... They get really really hot Do not do the test with the caps open on an older battery..... Hydrogen is given off and this is surprisingly poppy.
Yes that's exactly it, although slightly quicker alternation. I didn't even think of checking for CTEK instructions. Thanks a lot, much appreciated.
Thanks all for the replies, I've learned a lot there. Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. It's a shame that manufacturers don't fit, as standard, some kind of audible warning when the key is left in the park position. Or maybe newer bikes do these days; this is a 2002 bike. Will be definitely investing in a new battery pronto.
