After fully charging the battery using low currant charger what voltage should show on V metre about 30 min after disconnecting? My one is showing 13.3V should it not be 13.6V?
Lucas I wouldn't worry about a few 1/10's here and there. The measured battery voltage is bound to drop slightly due to varying factors, such as the battery has now stabilized after the initial charge, and maybe there has been a very small current drain with you switching the ignition on/off. Also I wouldn't expect the accuracy of the voltmeter to be 100% accurate, it just gives a good idea of what's going on!
John I did not even plug that battery in yet. This one failed on me with no warning number of times so I removed it for testing and been using another one instead. I left parking light on so that other one went dead. Decided to charge both and test.
Starting battery is 13V, with ignition on battery is 12.6V with digital dash on, adding lights (high beam) and my rear view camera/screen it stabilises at 12.4V. During startup (no lights on) battery drops to indicated 9V for fraction of second at max compression but then jumps back to 11.2V and stays about there for next max compression stroke. If it does not start (well if I make it not start) and I stop cranking battery jumps back to 12.6V so I guess it is OK. I am killing batteries as with lights on (high beam) and my camera/screen on at idle 1k - 1.2k RPM Voltage meter shows 12.56V, with all off at idle 13.06V. Only at about 2k RPM with all lights/camera on I get about 13.4V - 13.6V. 2.5k - 3k RPM it is 14V or over. I think I will get idle back to stock 1.2k minimum or bit more when cold (my idle rpm drops when engine gets hot). FCR's might be happy to idle at 1k or less when hot but my charging system is not.
Lucas All I can add to this is that the voltage you measure across the battery terminals with a voltmeter does not give you any idea as to the battery's ability to deliver sufficient power to turn an engine over sufficiently fast enough to enable it to start. There is a method of testing a battery under load ( which is equipment sometimes found in workshops) but I would say that the 'Acid' test is to try it on the bike!
Well from what I read on internet battery seems to be ok but as you suggested it is now in the bike pending further tests. I kill the battery as well when my bike gets stuck on max compression like today. Full battery could not spin it until I dropped it to 3rd and spin the wheel.
I been there, stopped caring now. Starts, runs, leave it for 2 weeks without charge and still starts. If in dought the battery had it replace it and start again..
