As above. Had it for about 7 months now. Bike shop I got it from told me they had serviced it but there was half the amount of oil in there and it was like treacle. So in turn I don't believe the " yeah we did the belts schpiel" So. Looked at a few videos. Cycle works went in to it in depth.....they went into counting the teeth and taking measurements. One of the posters said it didn't matter how the belt went on just that the cam ( if you call them that) wheels didn't move....is that the case....no one mentions the drive end ( the wheel that both of them hook on to) so I guess it doesn't matter where that is..... Looking forward to some help on this one....cheers to anyone that takes a punt.
Worried myself to death until I did mine for the first time on my multi 1000 ds took about 1/2 hour plodding reckon will take 15 mins next time , horizontal cam doesn't tend to move but vertical does , just put it back to timing mark slide belt over and that's it , very simple job and if you are near reading I will show you how
Take plugs out, turn back wheel whilst in gear line timing marks up first , undo tensioner and away you go , don't have belt too tight when tension new belt
Ok - cheers - playing devils advocate here....theres nothing special markings-wise on the belt that says it must go in a certain position...so, as long as the cam wheels don't move then I can take the belts off and put the new ones on.... Or as you just said If I keep it in gear to get the top wheel lined up then the bottom one I can do by hand....
When you rotate wheel by hand with plugs out you will line all 3 timing marks up at same time , when lined up take belts off and put new on just line marks back up , no specific marks on belt only cam wheels and casings , take belt covers off and recognise marks before doing , take plugs out and rotate wheel whilst in gear to line marks up , really is very easy but do dummy run first so you are happy with timing marks etc
Which three timing marks....obviously the ones on each cam wheel - wheres the third? sorry I have to be absolutely sure about this...something ive never done before and it looks like if you get it wrong its gonna be expensive....
Each cam wheel and pulley at bottom of each one should be a dot or mark on all 3 , take belt covers off and you'll see them
Eh? - 2 cam wheels and the drive....? ie cam wheel 1 (upper) cam wheel 2 (horizontal/lower) and the final drive (the one that both belts attach to)
Yeah - I did look at that one but from (as I said) what one poster said was that they were making it more complicated than It needed to be.
No but as I said one of the posters said - copied and pasted this by the way.... MARKING THE BELTS? It makes no sense at all. The belt has nothing to do with anything. It DOES NOT MATTER HOW THE BELT GOES ON. What matters is the location of the pullys. Each pully has a mark there is also a mark for each pully on the case. Line them up. Remove old belts. put new ones on. 5 minute job. DONE! some people can make anything sound hard. That's the reason I asked....anything to make it more simpler if I can!
He doesn't mention marking the belts, you are doing it for the first time so check and double check the timing marks and follow the vid all should be ok. Steve
I usually put the front cylinder to tdc , That will line the dots on the bottom pulley , then mark the top pulleys with white marker in line with the valve cover . Once I have done this belts are changed easily time and time again . I dont bother locking the cam pulleys as its only the rear one that will turn and it makes no difference if you spin it twenty times as long as you line it back up with the white dot and the valve cover .
Looking at it from a different angle if I can get the belts off without any of the wheels moving.... Then I can switch the belts?
Yes , I put a plastic rod down the plug hole and rock the back wheel with the bike in gear to get tdc . Just the way I like to do it . That way if there is a problem you know where you started.
You folk are really making a mountain out of a mole hill. It's simple; Remove the belt covers. Remove the plugs so the engine turns over easily. Remove the small cover in the middle of the alternator cover and fit a crank turning tool. If you haven't got one you can improvise with am M8 bolt and a locknut... or just put the bike in top gear and turn the back wheel. Whatever method you use for turning the engine, rotate it forwards until the dot on the cross-over shaft pulley (the one at the bottom) lines up with the line on the clutch side cover. At this point the engine is at the timing point and all the dots will be lined up. The horizontal cylinder is at TDC at the start of the firing stroke and the vertical cylinder is half way down the inlet stroke with the inlet valve fully open, which is why the pulley wants to turn when you remove the belt. Remove the belts. Fit the vertical belt holding the pulley in position to keep the dot lined up with the mark on the belt cover inner. Fit the horizontal belt making sure that the dot on the cam pulley is lined up. Put a little tension on both belts s that the engine can be turned then turn it through a couple of revolutions so that the belts centralise. If you have lined up everything correctly it will turn over easily. With the engine at the timing position tension the horizontal belt. Rotate the engine forward through 270ยบ. The vertical cylinder is now at TDC with both valves closed. Tension the vertical belt. Put the plugs back in, refit the belt covers and the small cover back on the alternator side. Job done
OK. I'll be doing the job not this week but next. I'll post pics of the blown engine then....thanks for everyone chipping....and keep posting if there's a simpler way!
