Brake Bleeder Recommendation

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Ethel the Aardvark, Jun 20, 2023.

  1. My ancient manual brake bleeding kit has finally expired, so probably time I joined the 21st Century. So, any recommendations for a quality brake bleeding kit? For several Ducatis, mostly a 2010 Multistrada 1200S ABS, where I've seen multiple recommendations for a reverse bleeding kit.
     
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  2. I have a Sealey vacuum blleding kit and it is next to useless.
    https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/blue-spot-brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit/
    When you crack open a bleed nipple enough to allow fluid to flow, the vacuum pump just pulls air in through the loose threads of the bleed nipple and the fluids shows loads of bubbles in it, even if the lines are bled fully without bubbles to start with. I suspect the venhill version is just a better quality option to the sealey and would do exactly the same.
    The versions where you pressurise the master cylinder look a better option, but you need a specific cap for each different master cylinder.
     
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  3. I use a vacuum pump. But I only give it a slight squeeze. Too much and geoffs problem presents itself. I also dab some grease oround the periphery of the valve.

    You only need a light vacuum, you dont need deep space vacuum.
     
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  4. I have tried all the above, the vacuum pump tool and the one way valve as per Andy’s suggestion. I still find it by far the easiest to do it the old fashioned way; tube on the bleed nipple, other end in a container, open nipple, squeeze lever, close nipple, release lever etc etc. Be careful the fluid doesn’t splash out of the open reservoir when squeezing the lever, squeeze gently.

    However, I do syringe all the old fluid out of the reservoir first, well, almost all, don’t uncover the inlet port, and then top it up with new fluid and I use at least 250ml on the front brakes to make sure the entire line from reservoir to m/c to abs unit to calipers, has been changed.
     
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  5. All this talk about bleeding brakes, reminded me that my front brake lever was firming up after pumping so I’ve just bled through the front brakes and clutch. As I was starting the job, I remembered someone saying many moons ago, so long as the end of tube from the bleed nipple is fully submerged in brake fluid, you can just pump without closing the bleed nipple. Do you know what ? Someone was correct :D Andy
     
  6. When one of the rear drum shoes collapsed on the car and took out the slave cylinder I finally relented and bought a pressure bleeder. It was as easy & as efficient to use as they make out, fill with fluid, pump the pressure up and undo each nipple until it runs clear.

    https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand...al-brake-bleeder-2.0-litre---4832-113625.html

    The only downside for a bike would be the quantity of fluid required in the bottle and, as of yet, I haven't researched if they do a fitting for the master cylinder. The one in the box is a 'standard' 45mm.

    Plus I'm not sure how these work with all that ABS shenanigans.

    So perhaps not a good idea after all... I'll get me coat....
     
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  7. Solutions looking for a problem imho.
    Spanner, clear silicone tube. Job done.
     
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  8. I found the same but after wrapping some PTFE tape around the bleed nipple threads it worked a treat.
     
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  9. Now that is a good idea, why didn’t I think of that?
    The simplest ideas are always the best.
     
  10. Have you tried this kit Andy? I like the fact that it has clamps on the pipes. I’ve previously found that you can suck air in where the pipe goes over the nipple when using a vacuum pump.
    I’ve also found fluid can seep out through the threads when using a Goodrich one way valve, when you’ve cracked it open. The Goodrich one way valve is similar to the Stahlbus valve but because of the air seeping past the threads I have not been totally convinced by it. I’ll try PTFE.

    For 17 Quid I’ll try Andy’s Machine Mart Laser 7700 kit. It means I don’t have to buy Stahlbus valves for 2 bikes 3 callipers each = 6 valves.

    I did buy a big syringe from Boots which helps to either syringe out fluid from the master cylinders or fill them. Think I’ll buy another so I have one for new fluid and one for old fluid, preventing contamination.
     
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