I guess that it is irrelevant that these are Multistrada 1200s exhaust manifold studs because it could apply to any bike. Finally got the time and courage to fit the Leo Vince de cat pipework, did my research, had it all planned, warmed the bike up and started to take the nuts off the horizontal exhaust pipe. I was very careful trying to feel the nuts undo and - bollocks, all 3 nuts sheared - fortunately at the outside of the flange so I now have the OE cat off and 3 broken studs protruding from the head by about 5 or 6 mm. I would greatly appreciate sage advice on how to proceed now to get the studs out without having to take it to Moto Rapido. Thanks, Andy
I don't know how old the bike is or how much the studs had corroded/necked badly but I am surprised that yours have sheared if it is a relative youngster with healthy looking studs. My first thought is that they are making them a little softer these days. One way that works 9 times out of 10 is to thread a nut on the top and get someone to weld the nut on and then remove while it's cooling down. Failing that the last two I removed on front cylinder (of course) of a 900 Monster I managed by putting two opposite flats on what remained of the studs and then repeatedly heating up the adjacent flange/dousing the stud with penetrating fluid around 4 times before finally gripping as hard as possible with soft-jaw Molegrips while still hot. Even if the stud only moves 5 -10 degrees of rotation before getting tighter it usually means you've done it, as you can carefully work it backwards and forwards until the movement increases.
Thanks Chris, the nut solution is a brilliant idea as I have enough thread to get 2 nuts on what is left of the stud. The bike was delivered in March 2012 and has behaved remarkably well considering the horror stories a few have suffered. In hindsight perhaps a cylinder guard would have protected the exhaust area but to be fair I ride regardless of the weather so it has seen some shitty conditions. Andy
+1 for welding a nut to remains of the stud nut easy for removing with spanner and heat from welding helps release corrosion
Thank you gentlemen, a potential absolute disaster has been avoided thanks to your advice. All three broken studs have been removed without further damage and new studs fitted along with the Leo Vince decat pipework - my that's a bit loud . Andy
Copper Slip never ever forget 'COPPER SLIP' or similar ant seize on exhaust bolts, joints (like where your new system slips on) or part subject to corrosion and or heat. Even wheel axles. You'll never regret it. https://www.google.co.th/search?q=c...X&ved=0CDIQsARqFQoTCPnS1tmHpscCFQ5bjgodUvEIvA
Never having a welder I've used various type of stud extractors in the past. The only type I would recommend is the ones where you have to drill the centre of the bolt out then screw backwards into the hole with the tool. Had them work once. Had them snap inside twice. But I sometimes just bugger it up straight away by trying mole grips first.
I know this is an old thread, but it’s one that’s perennial. I’ve a 2016 Mutley 1200 S. At just 2 years old I won an arrow decat pipe on fleebay & tried fitting it at the weekend. I can’t believe how bad a lot of the fixings are. It’s like they are made of toffee. Despite being my daily commute I never put it away wet. It’s also been sprayed with ACF50 annualy. Anyway a bit of heat & lots of lube most of them came out unscathed, until I had to remove the front header. Stripping 2 of the 3 studs in the process. Several evenings later after Mapp gas & extractors failed to budge either, I drilled a 5mm hole about 18mm deep as close to the centre as I could. Ive managed to tap a new M6 thread down each stud but have run off centre a little on both. The thread is sound & is able to take a bolt up to torque. Ive ordered some titanium studs & nuts in the hope they don’t corrode as bad. I’m hoping I’m not too far off Centre otherwise my header won’t go back on. Just hope the pipes worth all this stress
Mine was fitted with bronze nuts that came off easily, possibly by the last owner but certainly would have damaged the nut before the stud and easily came off when I fitted my Leo vince system on my 1200s mutly
Mine look like copper, but they wouldn't budge. When the new studs come I\'ll line it all up & if it doesn't fit, will have to open the holes up in the manifold a bit to suit. Fed up of being without the bike now. Just hate my 14 mile commute in 4 wheels.
Well I've just got back from a short test drive & am well suited. Titanium nuts & studs in place & holding up well. I did have to bore out the exhaust flange holes a tad due to my inaccurate drilling, but all torqued down & no leaks. The pipe sounds real nice so it'll be off to work tomorrow with a big smile on my face. The only slight gripe I have with the fitment is that the end can is quite close to the rear wheel & swinging arm. there's only around 5mm clearance & I'm wondering if this is ok or have other folk on here packed it out somehow. I don't know how much these pilot road 5's grow at speed (width wise). Any ideas gratefully received .
Bit embarrassed about how mucky it all is, but I've just been out to test it & the heavens opened on me . Used a bit of red hermetite to make sure were sealed. You can see the small clearance from the tyre. The swing arm looks even tighter.
