1200 Broken Exhaust Stud

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Stavrich, Jul 13, 2019.

  1. Multi 1200s -2013
    Horizontal exhaust sheared off at the manifold end. Two nuts came off, after 3-4 days of spraying penetrating oil. Third one snapped off with just 5mm sticking out but now less as chewed down by the locking pliers.
    Tried everything to take it off (apart from drilling out) but no luck. Went to an engineering shop but they wouldn't do it while on the bike - want the cylinder head on the bench.

    I am not looking forward to to taking the head off so does anybody know a shop that can do it on the bike (around Northampton, Bedford, Milton Keynes area) or have any ideas how to remove it.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Thanks
     
  2. if there was space i would try and get a blob of mig weld on the end of that and keep building it up, carefully, you obviously dont want weld spatter on your paint work or melt the alloy around the stud, until you you have enough to hit on a torx socket.
     
  3. Thanks Finm, good suggestion and possibly just weld a nut on but not good at mig welding and now that you have mentioned "melt the alloy" definitely not me - but something to keep in mind.
     
  4. for future reference, i use innotec deblock and deblock ice in the workshop. its the bizz by the way. i have also started using innotec power grease on my chains, sprays like WD, sets like proper grease. zero fling.
     
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  5. as finm says or if enough left (can't quite see) get a plain nut on there flush with head and build/join to that. If you find someone friendly with a Tig instead of a Mig then I think you will be home dry. I know someone here who would (Surrey) but no good to you. Don't be tempted to drill and use an "easy out" - a good friend of mine gone 30 years used to tell me there was no such thing.
     
  6. If you can position and hold a nut over what remains of the stud, you then build up weld inside the thread of the nut onto the stud, creating a bolt in effect, thus, to some extent, also protecting from splatter or alloy melting
     
  7. Could you fit the manifold bracket on with the 2 nuts tight in place and then use the empty hole as a drill guide?
     
    • Like Like x 2
  8. ^^^^^
    What I would do - if you want to protect from splatter get some thin aluminium or steel sheet and put it under the nut before you weld it on
     
  9. Thinking of that as well. It will ensure straight drilling and use an extractor bit but Chris has thrown in this warning now.. "
     
  10. crawl under your car, or preferably your neighbors and rob the heat proofing bolted to the car above the tail box. its very easy to cut and mold to any shape you like.
     
  11. I say that after many attempts ignoring my friends advice (and feeling disrespectful during!) to discover the success rate is very low. The smaller the diameter the least likely is your chance of success sadly.
     
  12. fastest and easiest is simply remove the head and take it to a shop. No guessing, no welding nuts on, no trying to drill. Take the simple route for a proper fix
     
  13. This thread is all about following the O.P.'s wishes, first post. :upyeah:

    "I am not looking forward to to taking the head off so does anybody know a shop that can do it on the bike (around Northampton, Bedford, Milton Keynes area) or have any ideas how to remove it".
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  14. No it isn't, it seems to be about finding the most difficult way of removing this particular broken stud. I was suggesting the easiest way and the one that guarantees absolute success
     
  15. Last thing I want to do is to take the head off - I dont think is very easy and simple to do. I would like to look at all possibilities before removing the head off. Imagine taking the head to a shop, weld a nut on and the stud comes off straight away with no problem.... all the work taking the head off, putting it back (forget any other things going wrong in the meantime) done for nothing.

    My original question was - anybody knows a shop that it can help and any other ideas.

    New question :- Anyone close by who has and is good with a MIG welder and willing to help out.

    Already had a good advice - "if you want to protect from splatter get some thin aluminium or steel sheet and put it under the nut before you weld it on" . I made one up already.
     
  16. of course the plate is a good idea Stavrich, the only thing against fitting it is that it looks like you only have about a nut's worth of depth left on the stud and the further the nut is on for welding, the better. If stud is flush with top of a full nut or protrudes even when plate is fitted then should be fine.
     
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  17. He cannot thread the nut on anyway as he has butchered the thread with moles/pliers so the nut will be as tight a fit as possible and any excess nut depth over the stud length can be filled with weld metal. I generally find that the act of putting so much concentrated heat into the stud metal breaks the corrosion bond to the aluminium. Remember also to remove any zinc plating from the nut before welding (20 minutes in Brick cleaner generally does the trick)
     
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  18. much easier said than done ^ anyone whose ever used Mig on such a small stud will know how difficult it is to get a decent bond between nut and stud if the stud is too far below the surface of the nut, and that's the only reason I mentioned it, it might not even be applicable here. And just for the record, have done many similar scenarios over the years without protection and with no splatter damage.
     
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  19. Good advice from all. Looked to find a mobile service as @Siddo suggested. All the ones I found so far cover the Essex/Sussex area :( - will keep looking.

    I found a welder close by and will go there today with some pictures to find out if he is happy to do it. If yes, I will put on the new exhaust pipe with just the 2 nuts and carefully ride it there.

    Just hope there is just enough stud for the nut - I think there is.
     
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