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1098 Bronze Flakes In Oil

Discussion in '848 / 1098 / 1198' started by james bazel, Apr 28, 2020.

  1. While changing my oil in my 1098 I removed the oil pick up screen only to find 2 very small bronze flakes the size of black pepper, and unfortunately I do realize that this is probably from the big end connecting rod bearings. My question is there anything else inside the engine that these bronze colored flakes could have come from? Sorry I do not have pics , the bike has 15k miles with 1400 of them from the track.
     
  2. Yeah unfortunately I think it is time for a bottom end engine rebuild.:weary_face:
     
  3. My old 1098 went that way, but with a lot more drama!
     
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  4. Magnetic or not?

    could also be the clutch mate
     
  5. 1098 is dry clutch !! Unless further in the engine ! What is the lifespan of a 1098 lump ? Asking for a friend
     
  6. ah yes. So it is.

    bronze could be bearings/shells
     
  7. Yea I'd say the OP has an engine at an early calfing stage nothing as horrible as seen shit in you oil !! Good luck @james bazel
     
  8. Genuine question do they tend to give in around then ? mine only has 2k miles on her so won't be a problem for a long time but a buddy has 13k on his !
     
  9. Got 21k mi on my 1098 with no major issues yet. It was a relatively popular model so the number of total failures probably seem worse than others.

    Regardless shame for the OP.
     
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  10. Depends how close to the Redline and how often close to or buried within it.
     
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  11. I'd be fairly sympathetic with the redline in fairness and no interest in track daying them so i should be dead before the bike o_O
     

  12. TBH I think having them sat for long periods of time doesn’t help longevity especially in the earlier years. I had a 60 k Fireblade and no issues.

    I’m sure a frequently used but not abused engine should be good for 100,000 miles if not more if it’s maintained correctly.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
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  13. 58k miles on my 2007 1098s then failed horizontal cylinder piston followed by cylinder replate with new pistons/rings. One closing rocker and re shim during rebuild. Now on 60k but expect to replace sprag later this year. New mosfet regulator last year after 52k. Sigma 48 tooth clutch (non slipper) at 20k and plates only replaced at 50k. Three chains and new one fitted last week at 60k. Obviously brake pads and tyres but apart from that nothing else I can remember. Never tracked which probably makes a difference . Also FDSH upto 48k.
    Forgot fork seals around 20k under warranty and replaced by myself at 48k.
     
    #13 Geoffduk, Apr 28, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2020
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  14. Thanks , I plan on taking it apart in the next couple of week I just need to clear out my garage.
     
  15. To be honest I agree with you 100 percent , for almost all of the last 1400 track miles I was really hard on the engine and saw redline quite often.
     
  16. I'm sort of stuck trying to decide weather to replace the bearings myself which would be more economical , or get the engine completely blueprinted to race spec to keep this from happening again. The second option is quite expensive.
     
  17. I heard a couple of top ducati engine builders state that the 1098 and a few other ducati's have tight bearing clearances from the factory, and if raced or tracked could possibly spin a rod bearing.
     
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  18. Yeah get it rebuilt :upyeah:
     
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    • Agree Agree x 1
  19. My 1098 was garbage. 2 sprags failed, then a cracked piston and finally bottom end failure. Well done ducati...:upyeah:
     
    • Face Palm Face Palm x 1
  20. I think if you have the funds and looking to track ride again then this is the perfect time to get the engine to a more race orientated spec. If you got it done now you still have the rest of the Summer early Autumn to have the most enjoyment out of it.
     
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