BATTERY TYPES TO USE WITH STANDARD REGULATOR/RECTIFIERS ONLY Lead Acid - Liquid electrolyte (acid + distilled water) Sealed Glass mat types –modern version Cyclon cell NOT Lithium-ion (Li-ion) or any other Lithium chemistry NOT Nickel Cadmium (Ni- Cd), Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) or any other types now or in the future WHY ONLY LEAD ACID? These have been used for over 100 years for automotive and motorcycle applications. Motorcycles are supplied with them from new and like the OEM regulator/rectifier was only designed to work with lead acid batteries. Note Battery capacity Ah needs matching to the output of the charging system so do not use a car battery for any motorcycle or large motorcycle battery with a low output charging system. WHY NOT LITHIUM-ION? Requires very careful control of charging current and voltage –constant current with steady increase of voltage. Motorcycle charging systems have a wide range of voltage and current input completely unsuitable for Li-ion type. Lithium-ion batteries do not accept overcharge or either excessive current when charged or continued charging when fully charged. This can result in serious damage to the battery and consequential damage to the regulator/rectifier, worst case the battery can catch fire or even explode. Not suitable for trickle charging. With many varying environmental conditions which motorcycles are used; it is worth noting that Li-ion batteries will not charge below 0°c. " Basically if your bike was designed and sold by the manufacturer with a Lithium technology battery then that's the ONLY one to fit. If it was designed for Lead Acid.... then stick to that. I've investigated (as an electronics guy) a Ducati Fire caused by an overheating regulator, the last change being the fitment of a Li-Po battery. To all those that have changed over and say they'd had no problems. I say bring the machine to me. Free of charge I will measure how hot your regulator gets (using a FLIR tool) under various conditions. Then we'll fit a suitable lead acid and see how much cooler it runs. Just because you haven't yet destroyed your bike doesn't mean all is ok. * see https://www.dropbox.com/s/f5ekhntoafnc693/Battery Types.pdf?dl=0 from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR53.html
I use a Shido on my 853 without any issue but ... it doesn't have anything causing a constant drain like an electronic display, alarm or tracker. I have a Shido for the 1098R but only fit that at the track because of the electronic display and tracker which caused the battery to die last winter. One of the latest 1299s comes with a LiPO as standard but I don't know if the OE generator/ rectifier is any different. The Shido doesn't like 15v input nor trickle charging. Lithium technology batteries have come a long way since the soft case fire risk days for R/C models but I'm not convinced that it is 100% ready for the automotive industry .... yet. They are very light and the one on the 853 saved me from having to lose 4 pounds on a diet . Andy
If you decide to replace the generator set* with a new smarter one that is designed for the newer battery technology then clearly my post above would be invalid. However 99% of upgraders (sic) fail to see the requirement and are therefore risking the total loss of their machine. At present I don't think insurers are aware of the risk, but they soon will be. Any claim for a modified bike would be invalid unless you specifically advised them of the battery change/upgrade. Some people upgrade due to poor starting. On our bikes this is quickly and easily solved with upgraded earth, starter and battery to starter solenoid cables. My 998 is fitted with a USA made set. A night and day difference to starting, however the USA made cables came with a big import duty bill and were not made with ease of fitment in mind. A right sod to fit to be honest. Another brand is available here in the UK that fit EXACTLY, superb quality and are a doddle to fit. All my other Ducati have that brand fitted. Some people fit to save weight.... are there no mirrors in their houses! *This is from the stator / coils to the battery. Normally comprising of a 3 phase coil generator set, into a set of diodes (rectifier) and then some sort of voltage / current regulator circuit designed for the requirements and storage capabilities of the motorcycle.
Sorry Andy... I was actually writing an amendment and missed your post. Funny that 99% of it probably applies...
See my last post. If the manufacturer made it that way then it probably cannot use a Lead Acid battery... read the hand book and report back if it says anything useful... all new ground here. It's the regulator that is at risk of overheating, not necessarily the battery. The bike fire I attended was caused by an overheating regulator, not the battery. Note Lithium batteries can catch fire and burn really hot giving off loads of horrible smoke. I've never seen a lead acid battery fire on any vehicle. Loads of melted batteries due to shorts elsewhere, but once the casing looses integrity the acid pours away and the chemical reaction stops delivering heat to the situation. 90% of the people I know could easily do with loosing that in a week.... personally I could do with loosing half my weight.
