I cant adjust the chain tension on my PP 2014. I loosened off the two locking bolts and using the "C" spanner it just wont budge, not the slightest bit Could the shaft be sized? If so what the best way to free it up?
There is a possibility that the eccentric is seized, it should be cleaned routinely as part of one of the services. Unfortunately there is no easy route out, you need to release the rear axle so you can access the large circlip that holds the the eccentric in the rear brake master cylinder mounting bracket. Once that is removed, you can drive the eccentric out of the swing arm. One cheat you can try is to remove the two large clamping bolts and try and gently drive a wooden wedge into the gap to just open it a fraction more. You could also try spraying release fluid around the join line but, don’t get anything into the bearings. Not to dishearten you any more, even if you can get the eccentric free, I’d advise you to check the state of the double row, roller bearing on the wheel side of the eccentric. It is a known failure point if the eccentric doesn’t get serviced often enough. Andy
Are you using the C spanner from the toolkit? Made of cheese and not much of a throw. Whilst you should be able to use it, and a stiff eccentric is a sign that service is required, a better C spanner will make adjustment at least possible. I've recently bought a Laser one, correct fit on my 1260 at 125mm (check that yours is the same as earlier bikes may use a smaller diameter) and is far more stable and secure in use that the OEM toolkit C spanner.
Stick an extra length handle on the C spanner and give it a tap... I like to use a big club hammer, GENTLY. easier to hit softer with a big hammer the. Harder with a small hammer
As a temporary measure, you can gently prise open the hub clamp, as suggested, spray plenty of WD40 in and it should move without much force. I wouldn't use excessive force or extension bars, you'll just damage the adjuster ring. Ideally it needs to come apart, be cleaned and the drain hole unblocking. I also use a thin smear of copper grease on the hub on reassembly.
I had a better C spanner made of SS. I take the point, it should move with out shocking or extra force. I did get one half of the clamp to free up, but still no joy,,,odd that !?! Now its off to the local Ducati expert Gerald at MotoPrep, he will open it up and a full clean out and lube. PS a message to South African riders: If any one is down the Port Elizabeth area on their Ducati and finds they need assistance he is the go to guy for Ducati google MotoPrep Port Elizabeth
The other problem is that dirt get's into the swingarm and small stones can get stuck and jam it. This was the case with mine when I took mine out earlier this year. I couldn't adjust it by C spanner but I could easily adjust it after I cleaned and lubed it.
The plastic bung for the hole in the front of the swingarm helps keep the shite out Made by Shapeways I think.
I now recall having seen this early on my ownership, on of this things you put off doing... Do you know; can this be fitted without removal of the swinging arm?
I doubt if you need to go to such lengths of removing the swing arm... just take the wheel off I should have taken a pic while I had the wheel off Here in SA we don't have salted roads... thankfully, but do get fine dust which does get into the finer workings of exposed parts. I reckon the eccentric adjustment is binding on the hub...maybe Will also get a bung for the opening
Found it > https://www.shapeways.com/product/YPW748F2R/ducati-mts-1200-deckel-schwinge-cover-swingarm Wonder if it's the same for the 1260, swing arm is different length, there might be other differences, so unsure if this would fit. EDIT: Just translated the German text, apparently there is no such hole for models later than 2015. AKA DVT onwards. However, for the OP this is probably a good idea to mitigate ingress of road crud in the future. Either that or the use of builders expanding foam. The same issue on the Honda VFRs and this was the recommended means of preventing reoccurrence on the VFR forum.
That's the one and does the job well however, I'd definitely recommend using silicon etc to bond it in place as it can work loose as I found out on my 2012 1200S! I bought one when they first came out and thought the tabs would hold it in place but found it gone during the next wash of the bike. I see they updated the description to include fixing it in place and, once done, it's job sorted and no more concerns.
Had one for my twin spark, Clipped into place, no silicone, it’s kicking a round the garage somewhere,if someone is interested
That's the hole for the lower shock mount I believe. The hole in the swingarm that the cap goes in is to the front of the casting adjacent to the rear of the gearbox. Have a look at the photo in the link I posted above, there's an arrow pointing to it.
