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Casing Bearing Removal

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by gaz92, Mar 10, 2018.

  1. I know I am going to get hammered for this so fully expect it.

    The reason I have stalled with the reno is I need to clean the casings up. I am going to Aqua blast and treat with Acf50. I have the 2 casing halves split with all internals out and just the bearings in. Obviously I need to protect the bearings hence the blanking plate and plugs e.t.c.
    The trouble is its only done 12k and feel the bearings are fine and did not want to pull them out or replace them, but the blanking plates are proving a bit time consuming to measure up and get right.

    So I thought (here it comes) I could pull the bearing and re-use, to be honest I could do without £250 of new bearings. I am sure mains are about £75 each and would be sure the other are £20-30 each.

    So has anyone pulled the bearings out, what would be the best method for each as there seems to be be some in blind holes - and does it involve putting the casing in the oven while the wife's out. Also would you put the engine back in the frame before putting all the wiring looms on, which is best or easier.

    Cheers Gaz
     
    #1 gaz92, Mar 10, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2018
  2. Stick the casings in the oven and get them up to 100C or so and the bearings should drop out. The one in the blind hole might need a tap on the other side of the casing with a soft hammer to make it move. If you are going to knock them out, only hit the outer races in this case or the balls and inner races will be damaged.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. what doc said. But wait till wifey goes out eh.

    Get some bacon. You may need to mask a smell. Plus you can have a butty afterwards.
     
  4. Ducv2 / Bootsam
    Thanks for the tips. I did heat some rocker end caps to get the bearings out and about 100C was the temp when I heard them drop out. Best try and clean as much oil off as I can then.
    Cheers Gaz
     
  5. Yes I didn't clean mine too well when I put them in the oven and came back to a whiteout in the kitchen
     
  6. I used a 2400Watt garage bar heater and put the cases on that as the studs made it too big for the oven. Same idea just take care not the stress the inner race. The mains are about 70 quid and the others vary but 20 quid for some so it's worth reusing. The end float is different for used bearings when you reassemble.
     
  7. As desmoquattro says you will need to recheck the preload on the mains when you have finished. Just done mine and set it at 0.15mm
     
  8. Going back to your original idea. I recently had my Guzzi crankcase vapour blasted - to protect the bearing housings (obviously the same as protecting the bearings), I made blanking plates from 6mm ply, and sealed them to the cases with ordinary silicon sealant. Where I could get to both sides of the bearing, I nipped the two plates towards each other using tie wrap threads through small holes in the centre and looped over a couple of small dowels (easier to do than describe!). Where the housings were blind, I just stuck the blanking plate onto the alloy. Both solutions worked fine, and survived the blasting. On disassembly the silicon just rubbed off.
    Might be worth a thought, if your wife is overly protective of the kitchen (as is mine!).
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. Sorry, preload not endfloat
     
  10. Thanks all.
    Regarding preload for new bearings I thought there was a preload, not sure what it is off the top of my head will look up, but on a used bearing I thought I had read it was zero. Can anyone confirm that.
    Cheers Gaz
     
  11. Thanks Hejira / Mr R,
    I think I am going to have a concerted effort to get some blanking plates, thinking back I put some smaller components in the oven and they smelled a bit.
    I will let you know how I go.

    Cheers Gaz
     
  12. It also works with a heat gun
     
  13. I have been concentrating my efforts on the blanking plates. I think I have the profiles as close as I am going to get them and have ordered some plugs for the threaded holes.

    This is a shameless pitch to anyone out there who has a CNC lazer or waterjet profiler in their garage and can whip me off a set for the price or a pint and a packet of pork scratchings.

    Seriously free would be good (because I am a tight Yorkshireman) but obviously don't mind raw material costs, and if bit extra was need for your/machine time then again fine. I just did not want get into £50-60 min order with the local lazer cutters but I know people need to make a living. Obviously any one who wants a set are welcome to the .dxf file file once I know the profiles are OK.
     
  14. Just to keep information together I thought I would update this thread.
    So, I never got the blanking plates done as they were going to be too over £100 so endind up taking the bearing out.

    I've been looking round for some temperature and times for heating up the casings. I had settled on around 120 deg C.

    As well as "Andy's motorcycle obsession" I watched a good set of video by an Aussie bloke renovating my exact bike - Wayne Pattersons motorcycles Bunbury Western Australia. The videos are under "turbobike" on youtube.

    I think he said he heated the casings to 170 ish for an hour which I though was a bit on the top side both for both heat and time.

    Replacing the bearings I did the following:
    Make sure the wife is out.
    Bearings in freezer over night
    Put casing in oven cold 17 deg C. (using an infrared thermometer)
    Turned oven on set at 150 deg C.
    in 5 mins in was 75 deg C
    in 7 mins it was 95 deg C
    in 9 mins it was 110 deg C
    in 10.5 mins it was 115 deg C
    in 12 mins it was 120 deg C.
    I will double check these figures when I do the other casing.

    At this temp I took the casing out and the bearing just about dropped in ok. The 2nu03EC and 6004/C3 caught up a bit but I had drift ready and tapped them in.
    upload_2022-3-19_17-25-39.png
    Thankyou Stoshmonster Ducati.ms for the above picture.

    I think when I do the other side I will give it a bit longer may be 14/15 min and get it to 135 ish.
    On the videos mention previous he coated the outside of the bearings with grease - can anyone explain why?

    Cheers Gaz
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Gaz, great update, I've sat my cases on a bar heater to achieve the same end. Frozen the bearing slot in nicely.
    In answer to your question, I have no idea why Grease would be applied, counter intuitive to me.
     
  16. Desmo thanks for reply.
    I am a bit annoyed with myself really. I have put this off, a bit unsure of the method and not trusting my ability. In the end it was a piece of cake.
    Seeing as I was checking the temperature I put oven to 180 stopped it turning off and on so much, left it this time for 15 mins and up to about 130-135 degrees. Have some correct size drifts handy to tap any bearings home that don't go fully home. The 2nu03EC caught up again. I wonder if this is because they are small and the heat transfer would be quite quick. I think the Aussie guy put the small ones in first while casings were hotter.
    Thanks all.

    Cheers Gaz
     
  17. The 2nu03EC are the ones are about 20 quid, The cage is fragile, I have had very little success removing them without damaging. When installing having the right sized drift really helps just to get it right. Good to hear it's going to plan, the worst ones imo, are the swinagarm bearings
     
  18. Desmo,
    I agree I don't think it is possible to get the 2nu03EC without damage especially the blind one. Yes Not looking forward to swing arm but will press on. I am thinking local heat and threaded rod to pull them in.

    Cheers Gaz
     
  19. Yeah, I made a drift the exact size on the lathe. But I have used the threaded rod method too
     
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