Chain Adjustment Monster 1200s

Being a total numpty with regard to anything mechanical I was initially flummoxed on my first bike with a single sided swing arm so can I suggest either watching a clip on Youtube as these can be very clear and helpful . There are definitely some good clips on there. Alternatively take it to a dealer and ask them to show you. No substitute for a visual demonstration. It is really easy if you have the right tools and have been shown.

 

Yeah,YouTube search under ducati single swingarm chain adjustment,there's loads of different approaches but you will get the idea and work out what suits you,you could take the wheel of and have a close look at how the adjustment system works by adjusting it to either extremes and see exactly what your input does to the chain tension,it's a good easy system to adjust!

 

I read elsewhere on this forum (or another) can't quite remember that a modern O ring chain should not need adjustment. It needs to be set if the wheel is removed or the chain replaced. That might be your situation? Otherwise it should be checked for stretch with a 'special' tool and once exceeding the margin be replaced. In my case (Ducati ST4s) the tolerance is quite generous and the manual totally confusing. Distilling the wisdom of all the threads I viewed, the advice was not to stress too much about it and to err on too slack rather than too tight. Also to forget about measuring with the bike on a stand,as per the manual, rather sit on the bike and reach down to check how the chain is when the swing arm is under load. You still need somewhere to go under heavier load, bumps etc.
In my case it is lucky that I didn't wind out the adjustment because as I am finding my way with the ST4s I have since discovered that I need to uprate the spring to suit my rider weight and allow for some preload to add a passenger and luggage. So with all that suspension travel going on a slightly too tight chain would have been a bad thing indeed.
I'd suggest you follow @dukesox advice and find a dealer or Ducati specialist independent that is willing to do a show and tell. You will likely need their help at some point in the future so you might as well form a relationship now. I can recommend MotoV in Colchester if you get over Essex way but there may be someone nearer to you.

 

Here it is http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/145261-chain-adjustment-when-why.html

 

The chain does stretch and go out of adjustment, you'll feel it as snatch when going from closed to open throttle and it can make it difficult to be smooth on tight roundabouts and the like. Keeping the chain in adjustment is critical to ride quality but it's simple to do. Do it with the bike on the side stand but, before you start, it's worth putting the bike on a paddock stand to find the position where the chain is tightest. This is worth doing even if you're anal about cleaning and lubing your chain. If the chain tension is so variable that you can never get gear changes smooth, caused by stiff links, then you need to replace the chain and sprockets. There is a single torx pinch bolt (T60) that is near the bottom of the back of the swing arm that faces back. Loosen it then use a C-spanner on the eccentric hub to adjust chain tension. You'll have to buy both torx socket and C-spanner of course as Ducati provide sfa with the M1200. There's a little diagram on the swing arm, wipe the crud off it and it shows the tolerance (30-32mm I think) and where to measure (just before swing arm starts to narrow). Measure from the metal of the swing arm, not the plastic chain guide, to the centre of the rivet pins. Retighten the pinch bolt to 40Nm and job's a goodun. It takes 5 minutes once you've done it a couple of times.

 

The chain doesn’t stretch, god knows how much horsepower you’d need to stretch metal of that gauge, but it does wear, as do the sprockets, the small amount of wear in each link and on the sprockets results in the chain being longer and hence needing adjustment, keeping the chain clean and lubricated minimises wear, but don’t forget your chain and and sprockets are consumables and should be replaced before large amounts of wear occur, trying to get a monumental mileage from a chain can be a false economy, especially if it snaps and takes your engine case and left leg with it !.
(I change mine at 10k miles regardless of condition, some people go to 15k, others much more :0)

 

I believe the only thing that will make the chain longer is if the distance between the rivets gets bigger. If this distance gets bigger then the chain has stretched. I'm not as one with your philosophy.

I've had a chain on a Versys 1000 last 36,000 miles and I only changed it cos I thought bloody hell 36,000 miles. The sprockets weren't hooked, the chain didn't pull off the rear of the sprocket and it didn't need adjusting every time I took it out so basically it was a case of me over maintaining it. My Multi has 20,000 on the clock and neither the chain nor sprockets on that are showing any worrying signs of wear.

Do I ride like a Sunday driver, my Multi went thru two rear Pirelli Scorpions in 9000 miles so you decide.

So if your dollared up change your chain and sprockets every 10,000 miles otherwise change them when they're ready.

TB

 

Hi TB, so in your philosophy how does the distance between the rivets get bigger?, are you saying the side plates stretch, get longer?

 

If you say the chain gets longer then that is distance between rivets. How else would the distance between the rivets get bigger unless the plates stretch. Also, for the chain to break a side plate has to fail, if they don't stretch how do they fail.

TB

 

The easiest way to explain this is to simplify the mechanism, forget the rollers etc, just imagine two side plates joined by one rivet, try to pull one plate to the left and one to the right, they won’t move, now make the rivet a fraction smaller and the holes in the plates a fraction bigger (imagine the change in dimensions is due to wear), now when you pull one plate to the left and one to the right they will move due to the free play around the rivet, the assembly is now longer.
PS the chain can snap for various reasons, a rivet can shear, a side plate can fail, these failures are usually caused by crack propagation due to fatigue.

 

So... there is exactly one, not great video on this about the 2014 Monster 1200 I have.
I have watched others though too. I get the general idea. And I have read many threads and watched many videos on the measuring of the slack in the chain.
My question is the "Spanner C? wrench" Do I need something specific to my bike for this?
Or will the "Spanner C? wrench" that I bought to adjust the rear shock do it? I have not been out there to test it yet.
and I do not want to test it and THINK it fits and then find out it slips with real torque applied.

Thanks in advance

Rex

 

You hardly have to apply any torque Rex, it moves very easily once the pinch bolt is slackened, but the correct tool is what you need cos it has a cranked handle to allow access and also allows you to move the adjust in both directions, I’ll see if I can find the ad for the one I bought, hang on.

 

Here you go

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223035624394

 

Thank you.

But, wow, 2 sided? Nothing I searched for was shaped like a U.
Is that right?
2014 Monster 1200S

Rex

 

Yes, it allows you to nudge the adjuster ring back and forth to get the right tension, I’ve used mine, works great.