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1198 Clutch Basket And Plates Recommendations Uk

Discussion in '848 / 1098 / 1198' started by BB1000, Apr 7, 2021.

  1. Trying to find replacement basket and plates that doesn’t have to come from abroad as don’t want to be hit with import tax etc

    basket looks a bit worn but clutch doesn’t slip at all , can I just get a new basket and friction plates and use the the old steel plates.?

    TIA
     
  2. How many miles has the clutch done ? The steel plates wear the alloy basket, not the other way round so the answer to your question is yes, you can just replace the basket and (aluminium alloy) friction plates. Replacing what you have got with like for like is probably the cheapest but I’m sure others will advise you go with a 48 tooth basket which will require a complete set of new plates and certainly in one aftermarket clutch, a new centre. I still have this, https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threa...tch-now-includes-carriage-and-20mm-nut.80650/, for sale if you want to push the boat out. Andy
     
  3. 14500 miles and original clutch

    thanks
     
  4. That’s a good mileage for the standard, aluminium alloy clutch basket. Andy
     
  5. 15000 on my 1098 and 26000 on my old 748, yes the 748 is noisy but I reckon it will see 30k without too many problems. Personally I wouldn't be too keen to change change it if it's not slipping, chances are there's a lot of life left in it.
     
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  6. Well the basket was in a rough state lol plus the centre hub nut was not very tight so glad I changed it it all now. Next step test ride see if it’s ok
     
  7. I get my plates from JHP. They would sell plain and dished plates individually. Which was nice.
     
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  8. Test ride done, all seems ok with drive and gear shift, only issue is I can’t get neutral bled the clutch and still the same. Is it just because it’s a complete new clutch
     
  9. Any other advice lol
     
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  10. Is it a complete new clutch - hub, basket, steel and friction plates?

    Have you got approx 5mm between the face of the last plate and the face of the drum?
    Is the pressure plate correctly aligned with the drum (slot on drum spring post and cast triangle on plate)?
    Are the plates in the correct order?
    Have you changed the slave and not got the correct rod fitted?
    Etc
     
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  11. Yes it is, all lined up as it should be, correct order now as I noticed a 2 mm plate should have been at the end but was in the middle, will check the 5 mm gap later, same slave cylinder as before, not original Ducati but was on there when I got the bike only original part is the pressure plate, EVR anti clank version which means you leave the last metal clutch plate off, I swapped the last 2mm with a 1.5mm metal plate and neutral is possible now but still not as easy as before, I guess with friction plate wear it will get easier
    I did move the clutch lever out a bit as well and that seemed to help
     
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  12. I've always reverse bled the clutch and had fab results. It pushes the air upwards to the master cyl and lever mounted bleed screw. Just need some PTFE tape on the slave bleed screw to stop the air going in, a large syringe and a length of clear tubing. Doddle and absolutely great results as it does away with pushing air downwards when using the master/lever operation to push fluid to the slave. Would suggest you give it a go pal. What have you got to lose ?
     
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  13. An alternative to ptfe tape, is a big blob of grease. Another tip if using one of those pressure devices is to not get too carried away pressurising the thing. Ive found when I did (early days), it would choose the path of least resistance. Which was the bleed screw. Thus I would often get continuous air. A blob of grease helps. But I must admit, ptfe is so obvious I wonder why I hadn't thought of that myself. I feel like a chump.
     
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  14. Moving the clutch lever out to its furthest position will help because it increases the movement of the master cylinder when pulled into the bar, which in turn increases the movement of the slave & thus pushrod. Try adjusting the lever to fully out.

    As you’re almost there by the sounds of it you could also try swapping another 2mm plate with a 1.5mm plate :thinkingface:
     
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  15. I could do but that would mean a 2mm plate and a 1.5mm plate together at the start of the clutch pack instead or 2 x 2mm .... would this matter or does it have to be the 2 x 2mm. First clutch I’ve ever changed tbh lol
     
  16. You’ll be fine with a 2mm and a 1.5mm steel plate together as the first ones working out. :upyeah:
     
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  17. Awesome thanks
     
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