Hi, I am having an odd issue, curious if any suggestions. I have a 2005 999 Recently when using the clutch the gears were getting harder to shift, especially when trying to shift to Neutral. Almost impossible... just jumping between 1 and 2.. The shifter seemed a lot harder than before, meaning it took a lot more effort to shift, and I had an odd feeling that when still with 1st gear in and clutch fully pressed the bike wanted to move forward ever so slightly. Since the issue became more dominant (last couple of weeks). I have looked at the clutch leaver and managed to turn the little knob to adjust the leaver to allow for more 'pull' meaning the lever is moved further off and thus allowing to push the clutch more. This actually minimized the problem completely. However it's fully now cranked to as far as possible and the issue now came back quite bad where when I shift to 1st I have to hold the bike as it just wants to move as if the clutch was not pressed all the way, just 1/2 way. Only way to shift is to turn the bike off.. I have not ridden it since, (about 2 days ago). I checked the fluid level, and granted it is not at 'max' seems to be about the 'min' mark, but that should still work I would assume? Any suggestions? I really don't have the £££ to take it to a dealer at the moment, and if i cannot sort this myself with minimal costs, it'll be left to sit for a while.. Thanks ahead of time. B
Sounds like it needs bleeding, You can bleed at the slave cylinder but I always find most of the air at the top bleed nipple which is located inside the reservoir
Thanks, i'm sorry to be duff, but essentially drain all the clutch liquid and refill with new? issue caused by air pockets yes? Thanks,
You might also want to check the bearing on the clutch pressure plate. If this has failed or is not rotating freely then it can cause problems. To do a fluid change I do the following 1. Draw out the old fluid from the reservoir using a syringe 2. Fill will new fluid 3. Open bleed nipple (suitable pipe attached and a container) 4. Clutch lever in 5. Close nipple 6. Release lever Repeat 2 - 6 until clean fluid and no bubbles
No - you don't need to do that. Remove the reservoir cap, and you will find a 6mm (I think it is) bleed nipple inside the reservoir. Crack it open slightly and pump the clutch. You will probably get some air bubbles. Nip it up, re-establish the fluid level, and put the cap back on - probably sorted. I've had exactly the same problem, and can only get it working properly by bleeding it this way. Once done it will be back to normal, but only for another few hundred miles, in my experience. I have tried to get a seal kit for the radial master cylinder, but Brembo don't sell them. I have found the only permanent cure will be a replacement master cylinder. Apparently the 848/1098 master cylinder will go straight on, and isn't prone to suffer the same problem, but in my opinion don't look anywhere near as good.
No really need to drain all, the fluid. Air bubbles will always make their way to the highest point so just to the master cylinder to begin with. Undo the 3 screws on the clutch res cover, top up with fluid if needed. You will see a 6mm bleed nipple. Undo it slightly then pull the lever (Bubbles will appear) with the lever still held in tighten up the nipple then release the lever. Repeat until no air escapes. Very simple 10 minute job
Thanks MR C and Cocneyjanner, I will try this when I get home from work, I hope this solves it, as I was worried the clutch was worn out or something and will need a replacement... I was told replacement would be about a £500-700 job... ((( I'll report back after I try it.
For anyone wanting Brembo parts like seals etc, see if a KTM model uses the same M/C etc. They sell the individual Brembo parts including seals etc. I went that route on my Aprilia M/C seals. The Reason Ducati and Aprilia don't sell the indiviual parts is because Brembo insist on a legal agreement over liability for allowing a potentially non qualified owner to mess with brake internals etc rather than selling them a complete unit. Only KTM agreed to sign it.
Hi all, thanks for all the pointers. I have done this by a bit of a crude methods but worked, drained liquid using a little rubber hose and a syringe, then flushed through once using the same syringe to pull the new liquid through, and then just filled it up. This seems to have resolved the issue, however, the issue just came back today. Once again I have the lever adjuster cranked to the max and bike just wants to move... i can do the same again to solve it i presume, but any ideas what could be causing this? I dont think it's normal to be doing this once a month.. Any advice appreciated. Thanks, B
Ok I had a similar problem which I posted up ages ago , going through clutch packs , swapping plates , trying pack thickness , all trying to find neutral , bled everything , MC bleed nipple , clutch slave , tied the lever to the bar overnight , replaced with a Brembo RCS and now all fine , haven't tried stripping the std 999 master cyl and don't even know if they are serviceable but it wasn't leaking ,it was almost as if a return spring wasn't pushing the lever fully back out to give the full squeeze. Not sure if that makes sense but that's how it felt .
Ok here is what I did. Opened the cap up top, took a syringe and hose unscrewed the little bleeding nipple on bottom. Found that if I suck using the syringe the nipple is not airtight so instead just kept pushing the lever causing it to push the liquid into the syringe, some tiny buggles came out then just fluid while doing this I kept refilling the box up top to ensure it doesnt suck in air. Also cleaned some blacklike residue in the box near the bottom where the hole to the hose is. Then screwed everything back together. Clutch now harder than ever, seems good. Will just have to see how long it lasts this time. I did sit there fir a good 5 or so minutes squeezing the thing up and down and no pressure loss. Also madesure to tighten all the bits more than usually. Only thing I did this time . Didnt last was actually empty the top compartment fully and clean it all includimg the black residue which seemed like old fluid left overs. Will update if it happens again.
No I didn't but there didn't seem to be any problems with ,air ,fluid or return, but I will look at the MC and check, although now its off the bike it may not be easy to know.
Just skimming previous threads....I have/had (not yet tested) the same issue of not being able to get neutral on my 749, then the bugger stuck in 4th. Fluid was like Guinness, so i guess the PO neglected that one. The fluid reservoir was a shambles. Before and after
I've found the same, that the reservoir had some black residue on the bottom. I cleaned that out last time bleeding. After about a week or two the same issue came back though... again loss of pressure... I have this time however found that if I just pump the clutch a few times the pressure is back, and does not leave during the ride (never did). It does however seem to be less in pressure in the mornings, and needs some pumping of the clutch to come back, it never loses pressure while riding after warm. At this point at least I don't have to bleed it any more, as it seems just pumping it before the ride is enough to last till i leave it in the cold for a night or two. maybe weather/temperature related?
This has answered a question of mine... Basically when she is hot (Plus 80C ) Neutral I have not! Oh I see the green N light blink as I plink up and down between 1st and 2nd at lights but the lights turn green l-o-n-g before the neutral light does... Tell a lie - I get neutral once every 10 traffic light stops.
you can also replace the little neutral plug at the back of the crank case, they are very prone to getting muck all over them from rear tyre, they go wonky easily.
