Dirty Clutch Fluid 748r

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Andy800, Oct 21, 2016.

  1. Hi all

    Had my clutch fluid changed a few hundred (ish) miles ago. The fluid is filthy already? Had my clutch plates out recently, cleaned the surface as the clutch was screeching. Now its super responsive. When I had the pressure plate off I noticed the two small o'rings at the master cylinder end didn't look too hot to trot.
    Have a bit of play in the clutch lever now also. Didn't check the stack height, everything went back in the order which it was removed.

    What would cause the fluid to go black so soon

    Cheers

    Andy
     
  2. Novel approach this, but Google it
    Get a six pack and a copy of the TV times
    Settle down well with a blanket
    Happy reading
     
  3. Dr Google-Check
    6 Pack-Check
    A billion hits to read-Check
     
  4. When operating the clutch, a small amount of fluid returns to the fluid pot when releasing the lever. The blackness is some of the rubber seal material from the master cylinder mixed with the fluid.

    With your front brake, there is no fluid return unless you physically push the caliper pistons back in, hence why it stays relatively clean.
     
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  5. Poop.......So its destined to look filthy :( I wonder if a different grade of rubber would stop the blackening. Maybe Viton or silicone....
     
  6. Well to a certain extent, it's because of the seals breaking down slightly. A new unit may give you some relief from your problem for a while. But they aren't cheap. Someone on here will know if you can renew the seals.
     
  7. I Replaced the clutch and front brake reservoirs recently.. An oberon slave cylinder is on the cards.. I'll replace everything then, hopefully it might help. Horrible looking at guff fluid
     
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  8. It's been the way since time began..... It's seems better of late with the later slave cylinders... Even better with the cable clutches
    There are many ideas as to why it happens, rubber seal material is valid but my own theory is aluminium oxide from the slave cylinder bore contaminates the fluid. Many moons ago, I had some slave cylinders made and a key difference was that they were anodised post machining. The bore was therefore 'finished' and the result was clear fluid for many miles.
    It doesn't seem to affect performance, just looks unsightly.
     
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  9. A new slave cylinder definitely sounds like the way forward. There's a few things on the ever growing list. I'll give you a buzz shortly after I move house. Still need to change out my airbox :(
     
  10. I thought it was the heat from the engine? Is that not right?
     
  11. What you want is an X/quad ring seal. Remove the piston, drain the old fluid and check the bore for surface roughness. Use some very fine wet and dry on it to get it nice and smooth then clean thoroughly with, e.g. methylated spirits. Then replace the manky old rubber seal on the piston with a quad ring (X) seal, which you can get from Pro Twins in Surrey (~£8 all in), or from a purveyor of seals for probably half the price. It's 1" outer diameter, 3/4" inner, and 0.125" thick. It makes a big difference. Fitted one to my old 900ss years years ago and recently to my 996. Fixed leaks, stopped the fluid going black, and improved the reception on my TV. Bargain.
     
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  12. Does it pick up the kids from school?
     
  13. Don't be daft, it's a rubber ring. How's it gonna assess road hazards? But if you put two in your tea you can say goodbye to lower back pain. They're black magic, I tell ya.
     
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  14. That truly is a miracle product, it's made in imperial units to fit a metric application and it's expressed in fractions and decimal. Whats it made from, leather or gutta percha?

    Modern technology, it's unstoppable innit:pompus:
     
  15. Ha ha Your avatar....I had a can of that when i lived down under
    Impetric......The elegant transition of the old and the new.
     
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