Hi, I just bought a new DP Exhaust Shield from a Ducati dealer. Part looks great, but I was sort of expecting some washer / spacer type bits to come with it to locate and holder it in place. Can anyone tell me if it should come with any fitting bits? Maybe when I take the plastic part of, I'll find I can reuse the existing ones (if there are some)? Thanks.
Is it the big shield on the outside just up from the heel plate on RHS? On the 1098 the original piece is metal, that's why I ask. As I remember the fasteners are in a couple of parts and use spacers which the bolts go through, the original shield just has holes/slots when all the fastener parts are taken off. They also have a disconcerting tendency to vibrate themselves off the bike so if refitting I'd use locitite medium to hold them in. I replaced mine with SS M5 x16 Dome heads from ProBolt which have stayed in place but they are shiny shiny, so you may not like the contrast, suits me fine. John
Yes, that big shield - I assumed it was plastic, so thanks for clarification and tip to use Loctite. So, I just re-use the original fasteners, correct?
Keep an eye on em. The buggers rattle off at the earliest opportunity. Use Loctite medium as Jock suggests. I have spares. So when you replace the ones that fall off, buy a couple extra.
So... I tried to fit the exhaust shield today. The first problem was that the heel guard obscured the allen key from accessing the lower bolt on the shield. I tried to undo the hex bolts on the heel guard with an adjustable spanner, but could only free the top one. The access to the lower one wasn't so straight forward due to the angles. However, I was able to rotate the heel guard round with the lower bolt still in place which looked like it would give access to the shield bolt behind it. I really need a small socket to get a better hold on that heel guard bolt. So, I then moved on to the shield bolts themselves, which use the same allen key as the fairing (they appear to be the same bolts), the one that comes in the small toolkit. It seemed like a good fit though not super snug. The two top bolts were both tight, but I got one loose. However, when I applied a bit more force to the second, the allen key started turning, but it had just turned within the bolt head and shredded the 'female' hex slot :Grumpy: Suggestions of what I should do with a shredded hex bolt appreciated... I would attack it with pliers to try and get a grip on it and turn it, but it's slightly inset into the heat shield, so that would be tricky. If they are going to Loctite these bolts in, they need to provide a more substantial bolt head.
Tell me about it that's one of the reasons I went down the pro bolt route. The fasteners are (IMHO) shite and the Loctite of the Superglue variety which they apply far too liberally. If you use an "easy out" be VERY careful, sometimes they work sometimes they don't. if you think your using a lot of force STOP as they are hardened and if they break you are probably looking at shelling and re-tapping. Not fun, especially with the hardened shaft of the easy out stuck in there (I have been down this route before and talk from stupidity/experience). Another alternative is to jam a slightly larger Torx head into the bolt and try that. Tap it in with a hammer. If its the type I think it is (with a small head and a rim around it) another approach is a Dremel with a cutting head and use that to cut a slot in it. Then attack said slot with a chisel and hammer. With the Torx or Dremel approach you could also use Penetrating oil like Penrite, Plus Gas or if you haven't got them then WD 40 or ACF 50 and leave overnight. Then apply some heat to the fastener too, in order to get the Loctite to break its hold. None of the above is any guarantee I have used all 3 approaches in the past and had best success with slotting it, but I'd try the Torx first, if it doesn't work then you could try the slot routing. No guarantee and you try them all at your own risk.................this is why I HATE these small Allen headed POS and use bolts or regular caps when I can John
Thanks for the detailed and very helpful reply, John. Looks like I'm in for a load of hassle for what should be a 10 min job!
Snips, it may be worth investing in some better quality hex keys, as Old Jock says the bolts are pretty poorly made but add that to a poorly made hex key and there will be trouble, For what its worth, I bought a complete spare set of fairing bolts from carbon trader, much cheaper than from a dealer £35 quidish for all 54 bolts and you always have them when you find yours are missing , I also bought some spare well nuts as these seem to cross thread very easily and once you put1/4 of a turn on it you can't get them out. Always better to have them in the tool box than having to whisk across to the dealer Maccaa
+1 what Maccaa says. I have spares. CT Moto (carbon trader) does them for a much better price but they are alu rather than the mild steel of the OEM. Buy loads. I think I'm keeping CT Moto going by the amount Ive replaced.
I looked at Pro Bolt mentioned by Old Jock, but there must be an error on their website, because it says a tub of bolts is £240 (incl. VAT)! £35 sounds more palatable - I take it aluminium is stronger than mild steel? I do have some better quality allen keys in my very limited tool set and had them out to try the best fitting one. I think I may have picked up the Ducati toolset one by mistake when the head shredded, so you may well be right. Of course, to replace them all, you've got to get them out first...
Buy some long allen keys with the ball end in a set. Handy as fuck. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-10PC-METRIC-BALL-END-HEXAGON-ALLEN-KEY-SET-29595-/170893207190
Just to clarify Snips, Pro Bolt are extortionate, I only use them for fasteners where I want their particular product and have difficulty sourcing elsewhere. IMHO Al is fine for bodywork its what I use too. For the exhaust shield however I use SS in order that I can torque them higher, I have a healthy dislike for Loctite and only use where I absolutely have to, but that is a personal foible and it works fine. A bit of Loctite on an Al bolt would work just as well for that application. Macca is spot on about good quality tools too. Just as an aside Al are great for bits that don't carry much load, fairings, mudguards stuff like that, but I wouldn't dream of using them on engine casings, or any safety critical items (brakes spring to mind). It always amazes me though that the rear wheel nut which has a torque setting of 1Nm past a hernia, can be replaced with Al item. I use Ti there though I would just worry about it otherwise. Just what I do not necessarily correct to the letter John
Thanks again. Off topic now, but I see the 'D-clip' fasteners are a common upgrade choice for fairing bolts. I could see how they are handy for quick removal, but doesn't the D-clip rattle about and damage the fairing paintwork?
I did consider them but I wanted alloy as opposed to steel fasteners. I haven't seen the D fastener aka Dzus clips in alloy. Curveygirl in the US seems to be the supplier of choice for these. They would save a bit of time, for sure. There is also some minor drilling required to get them to fit. Got no clue about the clip flapping and thought that myself in the past but it doesn't appear to be an issue as I've never heard anybody complain about it and they are on a lot of bikes stretching back to the 916 and maybe before John
OK, as recommended, I bought the full set of Al bolts from CT Moto, with the intention of replacing the OEM bolts on a rainy afternoon. Other than the exhaust shield and the lower radiator guard, I haven't removed any of the other bolts yet. I went to remove the seat over the weekend, and couldn't undo either of those bolts. I was wary of putting too much force on the allen key and damaging another bolt head, but I did put a fair bit of force on. I'm using an allen key inserted into a handle to give better leverage, and ensure the key is inserted at 90 degrees. I believe the allen keys I'm using are reasonable quality (Husky brand), but there's still a bit of play when the key is inserted in the head, it could be a more snug fit, for sure. As the seat bolts are a little award to access (under the seat padding), I also tried practising on a couple of fairing bolts too, and these wouldn't budge either. Quite frustrating! I guess my question here is, what's the best way to remove a bolt before it's shredded? Also, should I gently increase in force, or give it a a quick sharp twist?
