Hi all, just bougt a non runner 04 1000 Monster. The bike was running recently according to the guy i bought it from, but he apparently left the ignition on, flattened the battery, then tried to put a strong charge through it with a charger to try and get it going. This is all im getting, and yes I know the kill switch is on.....I know that the pilot lights flashes three times, and apparently means that there is a problem with the codes either in key, clock or ecu. Fuel pump is not priming, and no clicking from solenoid . The battery is now fully charged, ive disconnected the ecu and clocks for 24 hours, and will reconnect tomorrow, hopefully this may reset. If this fails then there is a local chap who can reprogramme ECU ect and cut keys....hopefully the ECU is not fried, but if it is, ill be on the look out for a set of clocks ecu and locks ect.... Ive also joined the Monster forum, and have had some help on there, but if there is anyone on hgere prepared to aoffer some advcie and knowledge, i would be grateful. Ive checked and replaced fuse, none had blown. Cheers. oh, this is my first Ducati, have been put off before by electrical probs, heres a vid, and yes im aware the kill switch is on.
It could be the clocks or the ECU as both are linked to the immo system. if it is the clocks then the immo can be disabled in the ECU and the bike will start. if it is the ECU then you can pick a second hand one up to do the job. Depending on whether it is an IAW59M (2001 to 2004) or an IAW5AM (2004 on) dictates whether you need to have the immo disabled or the ECU virginised. If you look at the white labels on the ECU you can carefully peel them back to reveal another label below. This will have the ECU type on it. you can pick up ECU's off ebay quite cheaply. If you need the ECU flashing then I can help out. PM me if you need more help or info.
Hi Chrisw, your name has been mentioned to me by soemone else, thanks for the comments, ill be in touch. oh, I have no Red key.
Just read the thread over at UK Monster... It sounds like the clocks have lost the codes for your black keys when the battery drained, but your ECU may also be damaged from the fast charger due to the fuel pump not priming. Try adding a wire from the middle pin of the diagnostics socket to the battery earth, as this can sometimes complete the damaged earth circuit in the ECU and get it working. To get your keys fixed is another matter. You could have the ECU set back to virgin state which means it will accept any key, or you can have the immobiliser disabled off the ECU completely and again it will start with any key. I would be tempted to get the IMMO removed from your ECU, if only temporarily, to remove this from the equation and get the bike running! Hope this helps!
Hi antonye, how effective is the 3amp ecu fuse, surely if to much charge made its way to the ecu it would blow, its still in tact, along with the others. But as the pump does not prime, this does raise concerns over the ecu.perhaps a second hand working ecu, flashed is the answer.
The ECU's are really sensitive to voltage spikes or polarity inversions. Try the cheap stuff first. Check the fuses. Replace the relays. Try the wiring mod as given by Antonye. If these don't work then immo removal from the ECU would be my next step.
Hi antonye, how effective is the 3amp ecu fuse, surely if to much charge made its way to the ecu it would blow, its still in tact, along with the others. But as the pump does not prime, this does raise concerns over the ecu.perhaps a second hand working ecu, flashed is the answer.
Legend of fuse box (5) Pos. Description Rat. 1-9 Main switch 30 A 2-10 Fuel pump, injectors, coils 20 A 3-11 Key sense 10 A 4-12 Control unit power supply 3 A 5-13 Passing 7.5 A 6-14 Parking lights, instrument panel lights,15 A high and low beams 7-15 Stop, warning horn 10 A 8-16 Speed sensor 5 A A quick scan of the wiring diagram shows 2 relays. Main relay and Injector relay(also for coils/fuel pump)
Junk the relays and replace with new ones - it'll cost you a fiver and then you'll know they're good. Relays are only mechanical switches and they do fail. Why they are not changed at the big services is a mystery! As Chris says, the ECUs are very sensitive to voltage levels and inversions. Of all the ECU problems that I've seen, the majority of them have been due to bad earths or wiring faults rather than the ECU itself.
tilts could you look at the previous keeper list from the v5 and write to them to see if they still have the red key and code card
There should be more than one, and you also want to check the loom itself in case a connector is corroded.
Could be anywhere in the loom - it may not be the ECU that is not fully earth. Trust me when I say you need to check *everything* in the loom to be sure! One recent case was where the 749 wouldn't fire due to a corroded earth on the fan wiring!
Could also be that the antenna has dropped down . its under the ignition shroud . No harm in looking anyway.
one other point, I took the clocks off. and there is something rattling inside, need to get a small enough torque head to split. the clocks.
