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999 Error 19.2

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by 916CornerSpeed, Apr 10, 2019.

  1. Hello,

    I recently purchased a non running 999 project. Before I commit to the project I want to prove that it runs. Despite following a lot of good advice I've read on the forums I still haven't managed to solve the problem. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to working on these bikes

    The previous owner had tried to resolve the issue, even removing the old alarm, but in the end gave up decided to sell. It's a high mileage bike with a lot of corrosion.

    What I've tried so far:

    Checked the fuses
    Disconnected bits on the same circuit - rear light, horn, kickstand
    Replaced both relays (headlight unit and fuel pump)
    Replaced Starter relay/Solenoid with genuine new part
    Removed lower harness and checked connectors/wires - there was a fair amount of corrosion which I cleaned.
    Cleaned and re-soldered the diode connector for the start relay
    Changed the regulator
    Used a fair amount of contact cleaner

    There was an intermittent 16 error which I managed to solve by cleaning the connectors in the pump relay block, as well as replacing the relay.

    I popped into a reputable ducati dealership earlier this week and had a brief chat with a technician regarding the error and a potential ECU issue. I was told it was highly unlikely the cause of a 19.2 error - they said they would have to see the bike.

    I'm starting to think its an issue with the ECU - the previous owner may have attempted jumping it from a heavy duty battery pack, which I've read can damage the ECU.

    The ECU has an old sticker on it from ECUClinic.com - Not sure if it's relevant but thought I'd mention it.

    Should I consider replacing the ECU?

    Many thanks
     
  2. Does it turn over, does it fire at all, can you smell fuel in the exhaust, is it sparking, have you taken the battery box out and replaced the relay down there? lots of questions need to be answered before you will get much advice as an error 19.2 would suggest only an issue on the starter circuit? Also what was the alarm that was removed (the bike already has an immobilizer built into the ecu/ignition system as stock).
     
  3. check the battery cables for corrosion, and the earthing points as well.
    the ECU needs an Earth , and i have seen pictures of corrosion between the heat sink of the ECU as well, so if you can dig out and clean as much as you can..
    have you tried to bridge the starter solenoid? to check that the starter functions? have you used any dielectric grease?
     
  4. The alarm was a dealer fitted Meta System - model: M357T-V2

    There's no response when I press the start button, not even a click from the start relay. Not sparking and no smell of fuel

    I removed the battery box and fitted a new starter relay
     
  5. I purchased a set of Exact cables when I first got the bike and cleaned the earthing points as per instructions. After doing a spot of reading I made sure the ecu earth was cleaned and securely connected to the heat sink.
    I haven't used any contact cleaner on the ecu connectors or tried dielectric grease.

    I tested the starter and that's working, but haven't tried bridging the solenoid.
     
  6. Does the fuel pump prime?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. It does. But only after I cleaned the pump relay contacts. I had to take the contacts out of the relay block to remove some green corrosion
     
  8. Is it worth checking the starter switch. I’d suggest start there just in case it’s that simple. A bit of contact cleaner may help on the switch. Or a kill switch issue
     
  9. I would be checking the repairs to the loom after the alarm removal
     
    • Like Like x 2
  10. I removed, checked connections, and tidied up the loom last week, before refitting and testing again on Monday. There's always the possibility I've simply covered-up the problem, so I'll retest connections with a multimeter

    20190326_172519.jpg 20190326_172524.jpg 20190327_105421.jpg 20190327_105500.jpg 20190327_110654.jpg 20190411_143720.jpg
     
  11. I took a cursory glance inside the switch last week but didn't spray any contact cleaner. I will open it up and take a closer look.

    I really appreciate the suggestions - putting together an action plan of things to check next.
     
  12. ON another bike I had the same issue. I’d changed the battery and this had caused the sidestand connector to become unplugged at the back of the fuse board. It looked seated but it wansnt. Drove me nuts but eventually I found it. Can remember if you said you’d checked that
     
  13. Its been a while but I finally had a chance to work on the problem this week (The bike is 80 miles away at my fathers house so I only get to work on it every couple of weeks)

    I started by removing the starter switch and giving it a thorough clean - more green corrosion. I then refitted and tested - same state: code 19.2.

    I then tested with an alternate wiring loom : Same state: code 19.2

    A quick recap.

    Fitted a new set of exige stater cables
    Checked the fuses
    Disconnected potential culprits on the same circuit.
    Removed, checked, and cleaned original wiring loom
    replaced regulator
    Replaced both relays with ducati supplied replacements
    cleaned contact points and sprayed copious amounts of contact cleaner
    Tested with brand new solenoid
    Removed and cleaned starter/kill switch
    tested starter motor.
    tested with alternative wiring harness.
    replaced kickstand cable/switch.

    I think I've reached the point I need to do something about the ECU - any recommendations?
     
  14. Hi, where abouts are you. I have a spare 999 ECU. Not sure if they need to mated to the clocks and or the immobiliser or not, but someone on here should be able to tell you. May be able to use it to eliminate/prove it’s the ecu or not.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Hi Yazwaz, That would be great although from what i have read the clocks and ECU are paired. I just read on another thread that getting an 848/1098/Hypermotard ecu and having it 'flashed' to match the 999 map might be the way forward.
     
  16. I see Chrisw is already involved and he's the man to help you., especially for anything ecu-related.
    When you say you checked the fuses, how thoroughly did you check them?? Just because a fuse is intact doesn't mean it is passing current. That green corrosion you mentioned can affect the fuses and fuseholders too, so give every fuse a thorough wiggling and make sure the fuse blades are completely flat.
    The advice I was given when trying to identify electrical problems is to use a test-light in preference to a multimeter and you can either make up your own or buy one in Halfords for a couple of quid.
    It looks as though you're going to have to identify where you do and don't have current and thereby pinpoint where the issue is.

    Good luck!

    Ps @Derek is really good on this sort of stuff too...
     
  17. Perfect timing! I was paying a visit to my dads the following day and hadn't given the bike much thought. Took myself off to Halfords and purchased replacement fuses and a circuit tester.

    The old mans in the early stages of dementia, so after doing all the chores about the house and shooting the breeze with the dad for most of the afternoon, I managed to spend a some time troubleshooting the bike. I started by removing all the fuses and testing the connections. All had current, including the large 40AMP. I the fitted the new fuses and tested a few random connections on the upper loom - indicators, lights, brake switch, clutch switch. Everything seemed ok but there was no current going to the clutch switch. The Halfords tester was the one with the sharp point for piercing cables, so I tested the clutch wire below the connector, in case corrosion was the cause - still no current.

    According to the workshop manual the Electrical starting system consists of
    Engine Stop
    Start Engine
    Side Stand Sensor
    Neutral Sensor
    Clutch Microswitch.

    Based upon this I took the start/stop switch apart again and tested the current.

    Start/stop switch - current good,
    lights - current good
    Starter - no current.

    So I disconnected the switch and tested the block connector for the starter (blue and white cable) and there was no current. I then tested the cable below the connector and still no current.

    I started looking at the connection block between the upper and lower wiring harnesses but ran out of time to investigate further. I'm not ruling out a fault with the lower harness but I have tested with 2 harnesses and both produce a 19.2. I assume the current for the clutch & start switch passes through the ECU?
     
  18. Sounds like your process of elimination is going well.
    I think you need @chrisw and/or @Derek to help with the finer points of what is controlled by the ecu though.
     
  19. That’s what @chrisw did for me and he also switched the ecu to immobiliser-off while he was at it.
     
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