Excuse my ignorance here but just what benefits are there to junking the Exhaust Valve and fitting a ducee or healtech?
Exhaust valve is notorious for jamming and causing poor running. They rust at the slightest whiff of moisture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What JH said. The exhaust valve corrodes easily and sticks open or (worse) sticks shut. Poor running, loss of power, error messages on the dash. Even if it is freed off or replaced, it is likely to seize again sooner or later. The little black box which causes it to stay open permanently means the problem is solved for good. No worries!
remember you can simply drill the bolt heads & remove the flap and leave the spindle to do its thing. saves having to fix the dash errors
Just to clarify, it doesn't cause it to stay open, it simply tells the ECU that it is operating correctly in order to stop the warning lights. You still need to make the valve stay open yourself - disconnecting the cable and then using a pair of grips or a spanner to turn the corroded valve to the required "open" position worked well for me. I had to do this just last week. You only need the Duc-EE if you don't want the warning lights any more. After 7000 miles on a new DVT in Jan this year this eventually happened on my bike. I did wonder what all the fuss was about as I've not had any issues with my bike from new, but having read about this so much on here I was immediately aware of what was going on when my bike wouldn't rev over 5K RPM. I spoke to my dealer who said they were happy to replace the centre section of the exhaust under warranty but buying a Duc-EE would be more cost effective than taking time out of my schedule to get it fixed. Personally, I'm considering making Ducati pay for my Duc-EE ... so watch this space.
When I said it 'causes the valve to stay open permanently', I was assuming it was actually open at the time you install the device. If the valve is physically seized shut, plugging in an electronic device will not open it, as you rightly say.
Understood completely Pete. My reply was more for anyone searching for information on the Duc-EE, rather than a critique of your post. When I was searching for Duc-EE information myself, the numerous posts on here were still not definitive when working out whether I needed one or not.
So pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of the exhaust valve in the first place? Is it to stop moisture or condensation getting into the exhaust when the exhaust is not running, or for something else? I'm just wondering why they fit something to open and close that you can apparently do without out?
Kinda like vw cheating on the emissions tests but a little more honest. The valve is closed at the rpm the tests are performed at, and therefore the bike is clean and quiet as it needs to be.
Just got my Duc.ee eliminator in the post a few days ago, going fitting it now But here is an interesting point, last weekend I removed the pull wire to the valve. which I thought would then give an error when I turned on ignition. But no, it went through a "re-calibration" message and then no error!! My MS is a 2014 Pikes Peek if that makes any difference
I checked I was plugging in my Duc.ee to the right plug by cycling the ignition. I got the correct error first time. 2010 faultistrada Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JH_1986,How did you remove the servo control unit? I had a look at it and flip its not very accessible. OK, I might be just thick. But cant see how to get it at. If I drop off the rear down pipe would that help!! I need the space from where the servo was, hopefully going to put new power management (ECU) unit there
Get a second pair of hands, unbolt the rear subframe and get your accomplice to lift the rear subframe whilst you wiggle it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
