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1200 DVT Exhaust Valve Sticking - Does It Cause Engine Light On?

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Reburner, May 22, 2016.

  1. Mine has been sticking on and off. Have taken the cover off and bathed it in WD40 but have noticed the engine light has come on. Does the sticking valve cause this and if so how does the light clear?
     
  2. I think the bike has to go to the dealer to get the light off, they can have a go at the valve while they're at it... Then lockwire it open before it seizes again, it's a common fault and there are a few threads on the subject.
     
  3. Thanks for that.

    The WD40 (despite being applied liberally inside and outside) has not resulted in the valve moving freely.

    Is there any downside to lockwiring it open?

    Also can anyone explain the valves movement to me. If it is open by default is it partially closed at low revs and then fully open at high revs?
     
  4. WD40 is probably great for the lock on the garden shed, but does not stand a chance on an extremely hot exhaust valve. Any oil will either burn off within 30 seconds or turn to concrete under the heat.Copper based grease may be the only thing that will work.
    Having said that the exhaust valve is a complete waste of space, mine is wirelocked open, but the motor needs to be disconnected to lock open and that will throw an error code. Buy yourself a "Duc EE" from ebay to plug into the valve motor socket and the error code will go away.
     
  5. On 2010 the engine-check orange light will come on and stay on. Only when the bike is turned off and the valve resets by spinning open and closed does the light then go off again, but if it is seized it will remain orange.


    The valve opens at different revs, its there for the emissions and noise control eu/us regulations, so for example ducati has programmed that at XX revs in second it will open or close to minimize emissions or noise at specific revs, depending on engine temp speed etc, so difficult to work out when and why...

    Its not there for performance reasons and can be overridden, removing it doesn't have any adverse effects because it sits at the end of the exhaust and even if it was completely jammed there is no way to blow back into a cat to get performance and its not especially air tight neither, although some people on here do say that sometimes it runs rough when the thing is jammed.


    When it first came out a lot of us early adopters tried lots of things, some - the people who remove fairings and exhaust shields and other parts when cleaning managed to keep the thing going for a few months/years but it will/does seize up like the rest of normal-ride-it-don't-clean-it-that-way us eventually....if it does sieze then on 2010's the whole Cat assembly has to be replaced which is a pain and costly rather than just the valve because the thing is welded to it, I am not sure about later mts.

    Effectively all of us on earlier bikes have 'sorted' the valve, either by moving to full termi/decat or keeping it open with a device.
     
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  6. does that not mean it will fail emission tests at MOT?
     
  7. Not sure this will work on an MTS but on my 1098 I have disconnected the cables at the servo and removed the round cable connector from the Servo as well
    When you turn the ignition on the servo opens and shuts the valve to make sure it's working. If it doesn't move to the preset distance it throws up a light and shows a fault
    Having removed the cables to get round the light being thrown I fitted a bar to the servo. That limits the servo movement and stops the light showing
     
  8. I would very much doubt it, but we don't have MOTs on bikes here so that is just a guess.
     
  9. I believe there are no emission test on motorcycle's, otherwise I'm in deep doda with my Velo and Laverda.
     
  10. My valve is sticking too. Given the default position is open, if I simply disconnect the control wire that leads to the servo will that not solve the problem by leaving the vale open at all times?
     
  11. You need to put a sling on the end of the cable, so when the system tests the valve it closes then opens. 5 min job and if you have something laying around free.

    To the OP, yes it shows up as engine light and if it's working ok (or bypass like above) yes the light goes out, no dealer needed :upyeah:
     
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  12. I don't know about the DVT, but only the original single spark engine shows a fault if stuck open, the later engines do NOT warn the user if it is stuck open.
    So simply "lock wiring" it open solves both the false or real close problem and the hesitant performance on some engines.
     
  13. The light is simply to tell you something is wrong as it can't complete its test :)
     
  14. Mr. Bradders on your DVT if you wedge the valve open does the warning lamp light?
    It doesn't on the Twin spark, but did on the single spark.

    it would be nice to get a definitive answer for the folks out there. Removing/bypassing the servo is a sod on the older bikes.
     
  15. On both my twin sparks, if you bypass by adding a spring on the cable so that the valve is open and the cable isn't attached , there is no lights. The spring allows the system to do its check successfully. Hth
     
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  16. I have just disconnected the cable on my twin spark, thought I would try this before adding a spring. It works with no error messages.
     
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  17. The DVT seems to need a spring, I tried both ways. :)
     
  18. If you're light is on and the dvt end can butterfly valve is stuck And your bikes under warranty take to your dealer they'll order and fit a new rear section. You can't just disconnect the cables - my dealer did this initoally and the light stayed on.
     
  19. If going down the disconnect cable route, you won't need to lock wire open as on the DVT, the default position for the butterfly is open.
     
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