Just putting this up there in case it might be of help to someone considering fitting this or any other digital dash. A few months ago I decided to update the digital dash on the 998S as the last one, a DP prototype had no way of being configured. The speed read out was in kph, the gear indicator hadn’t been configured and a few other annoying bits. The speedo wasn’t too much of a problem as I fitted a speedohealer and put a bit of insulation tape over the KPH indicator when going for the mot but not ideal... Found this Dash2 Pro on eBay and put a cheeky bid in on it. Before buying it, I called Race Technology in Nottingham to get their opinion on the dash, stuff about resetting mileage and other options also discussed. (Only £35 for mileage reset and about £40 for a full service). All sounded good and with the licence for the extra 4 analogue inputs paid for, (£100 odd) and the buttons included, thought it too good to miss out on. You get 4 analogue inputs as std. It turned up a few days later and cracked on making the carbon fibre support out of some 3mm thick sheet. Race Tech’s web page has all the info needed for marking and drilling the surround and just measured the surround to headlight bucket fixing positions. I used 60mm long M6 bolts with rubber washers between the headlight bucket and surround and then used some M4 x 15mm studs (also with rubber washers) between the carbon surround and the dash. The wiring was a bit of a pain to sort but using a spare front headlight loom, there’s no need to cut the original loom. Used the little connector blocks until all working and checked and then soldered the wires together. This was the first attempt... Took quite a while to get the sensors working and then calibrated. But with @Old Jock’s and @Dukedesmo’s help, wasn’t too bad. Two things here, first you have to get the sensors to show numbers that match what the readings should show by using different value resistors, then you have to tweak the numbers using the calibration software downloadable for the RT web page. This is probably the hardest part of the whole job but their web page is spot on, all the questions you’d have on install are all answered on their page and forum. Did a few hundred miles with the dash like that but decided that I wanted the buttons down the L/H side and also missed the idiot lights. There’s no neutral light or low reserve on the dash and the indicator lights on the dash were a bit shit. The gear indicator is very accurate. It calculates the gear by the gearbox ratios, primary and final drives and then rpm. The problem with this is when the clutch is pulled in, just a “-“ is displayed. I needed a proper neutral indicator. Fitted these bad boys. All the leds work straight away apart from the low reserve. To cut a long (and expensive) story short, I just left the original LR bulb fitted and connected the led across it. Then a bit of heat shrink on the original bulb and stashed it along with the wires. The good thing about this dash is you can configure any of the 3 available display screens to show whatever info you have sensors for. Setup like this... Screen 1 shows, oil pressure, oil and water temps. Screen 2 now shows, fuel pressure, volts and will show the air temp when I fit the sensor. Haven’t bothered with screen 3 yet. The screen can be changed by pressing the top button. The second button moves the screen backwards. The third button is for the menu and the fourth is for select. Pressing 3 and 4 together resets the trip. Haven’t really bothered looking into the menu and sub menus yet but looks like a fair bit can be altered using this instead of having to connect the laptop. Stuff like shift light brightness, screen contrast and other stuff. In conclusion, this is a mega dash and can be used with gps and the built in lap timer and can be connected to a data logger if required. This is a lot more dash then i’ll ever need but for the price, I reckon it’s hard to beat. Ian
I have a TransLogic dash and had the same issue with the low fuel warning. The problem is that the LED doesn't draw enough current. If you swap it out for a normal bulb it will work fine. But I appreciate that it's just fucked up your nice display lights
Mate, I had a right time trying to sort that bast@#d light. I first tried using a resistor which should have been 82 Ohm and 5W. Ordered a .82 Ohm resistor by mistake, fitted it, saw the resistor smoking and bye bye low level fuel sensor. £125 later and all good again! Tried using a 82 Ohm jobby but didn’t like how hot it got. So just the bulb.
Brilliant! I need to change mine to have both a neutral and a fuel light, as I don't like the "n" indicator in the dash only for the neutral. Just need to find another piece of carbon fibre kicking about
