Couple of questions on adjusting the front spring preload on this bike? How many rings showing when it comes out the showroom? Is the adjustment to preload made on the upper hex ‘bolt’ ... as opposed to the lower one, as it looks the manual? Also why does the manual say 22mm hex wrench when nothing up there seems to be that size? I bought this bike second-hand 10 months ago and the handling is pretty horrible. I put it back to stock settings for both compression and rebound, front and back which has improved it a lot but I know it should be much better. TIA
Not had one in a while...is it the large or small nut? Pretty sure it was a big one, 19mm or 22mm sounds about right
1 = rebound 2 = preload smaller nut is not used for setting Compression is at the bottom of the fork. https://assets.ctfassets.net/oifkva...d8ecf22/OM_-_Multistrada_1200_-_EN_-_MY15.pdf
So to clarify, I understand the screwdriver adjustments for compression and rebound damping, at top and bottom of fork leg. I’m specifically seeking help on the spring preload, which is adjusted from the top end using a hex wrench. Why does the manual mention a 22mm ... when nothing up there will accommodate such a thing! In which case, I’m confused as to which of the hex fittings I want to adjust. I’m thinking the largest fitting is for dismantling the whole fork. Whilst the smaller hex fitment is concerned with spring preload? In essence I want to know, which is spring preload adjustment from the manual diagram? If you know, you know ... no ambiguity no 2 on the diagram is marked as ‘inner spring preload’ but I think it’s marking wrong hex, as well as spanner size!!
Perhaps this will help as I had a similar issue on the latest pikes peak. The biggest nut is probably the cap itself, undo that and the spring will shoot out. The smaller nut looks like preload. Screw it all the way in for full and out for minimum. The book is a joke, mine says 14mm 10max turns. The bike is 17mm 15 max turns. So do your own test. put a tie wrap around the leg. Set the preload to about 1/3 out from full clockwise. Go for a run. Your looking to push the tie wrap to about 10mm from the bottom of the fork on a good hard run. Less than 10mm turn one revolution clockwise and go again etc etc. do both legs identical and you will end up with a reasonable sag set for your stile of riding, . suspension is a black art.......
The preload adjuster will turn readily with slight resistance, any nut that's part of the top cap will be tight. Finding the one that's preload should be a simple matter of trying
Thanks - I figured the lower and bigger hex was probs the cap, so didn’t want to mess with it in ignorance. In which case the spanner required is 14mm and not 22 as stated on the manual!! I’ve done the tie wrap test, so will start adjusting the preload to achieve the measures you suggest for sag. Thanks
The inner hex is the pre load, the outer hex is the fork cap. The pre load is on a 1.0 mm thread so adding 5 turns of pre load will raise the front by 5.0 mm. Conversly, reducing pre load by 5 mm will lower the front by 5.0 mm. So adjusting pre load adjusts geometry. TB
Thanks. I thought geometry ie. front end height, was changed by moving the clamps on the yoke up and down the fork legs. And the spring preload inside the forks changes the physical compression on the springs. So it actually alters the height at the same time then?
Changing the pre load on either the front or rear spring will affect the ride height. If you want to test this out then remove all pre load and measure from the dust seal to the fork foot (on USD forks) then apply all the pre load and re measure. Thats why its important to get the suspension working optimally before you start messing with geometry using the height adjuster on the shock or dropping/raising the forks thru the triple clamps (yokes if your from our era) TB
Wow - I never realised or heard that before but it makes perfect sense! Thanks So without going out to the garage to measure, I'm guessing that each of the marking rings at the hex adjuster is 5mms?
