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Garden Lights

Discussion in 'Lounge' started by Ballbagracer, Aug 8, 2018.

  1. So been trying to wire my garden post lights up. Thought I'd cracked it but then touched the lights while off and got a small electric shock :astonished: been on the line, but I'm getting confused :laughing:. The lights only come with block connectors. I have the first light looped to the switch and then run the three wires (as should be) to the next light (brown/brown, blue/blue and earth/earth)
    Anybody able to explain in simply text :laughing:
     
  2. Yes: electrickery is witchcraft :worried:
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. You can’t wire direct into the national grid

    Get solar meerkats instead
     
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  4. You can but you'll be needing some very long special cable and big rubber platform boots :):upyeah:
     
  5. @Exige does cables for this stuff.
     
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    • Funny Funny x 1
  6. I’m assuming as they’re rated for outdoor use they are powered via a transformer, if they are mains 240v be very very careful. 240v can kill. Need more information with regards to type of cabling, where you’ve picked your earth up from, length of runs etc.
     
  7. He stuck one end of the wire in the lawn....
     
    • Funny Funny x 3
  8. Hopefully the Earth :thinkingface:
     
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  9. Need more info ballbagracer. Are these garden post lights 240V? what cable have you used -Swa or hi-tuf, and what size ? How is the cable run, under the ground, cleated to a wall? Do you have a 30Ma R.C.D in your consumer unit?
    How did you join the wires into the switch? What is the length of run of the cable?
    Photos would help too.
     
  10. 240v lights. I have run from the consumer to the first light, the first light to the switch and that one is looped. I am running 1.0mm sq 3 core. The wire comes from consumer in summerhouse and then goes underground in trunking about a meter to the first light (same with wire to switch) I have then gone, live/live, neutral/neutral, earth/earth to the next light (no more than 2 meter) each light has an earth wire built in and connected to the light. They both switch on (happy days) but when I switch off and then touch the body of the light, there is current on the body!
    I'll try get some pictures later.
    Thanks for any advice (other than get a sparky lol)
     
  11. Without going into too much detail, the wiring that has been carried out must be protected by a 30Ma RCD or less.
    You say that you have picked up power from the CU in the summerhouse, is there a 30Ma RCD incorporated in that?
    Conventionally- to do your lights, power would be taken from a 5A MCB from a CU straight to a switch and then from the switch to the first light. Any additional lights could then be connected into the first light , Live to Live, Neutral to Neutral, Earth to Earth.
    Checks that should be carried out for safety and conformity with the regs are, amongst others-
    500v insulation resistance test.
    continuity test of final protective conductors.
    Polarity.
    earth fault loop impedance.
    voltage drop.
    etc etc.

    I have a hunch, that as you mention you have taken power to the light from the CU, and from the switch also to the light, you have possibly made a mistake in this junction, Have a check there first.
     
  12. A single twin and earth spur cable via an RCD should be how they are wired; not through the consumer board. I would fit a chocolate box connector in the tails from the incoming main supply (after the fuse cartridge) then split to the RCD and the consumer board.

    I would connect the earth wire to the consumer board earth block using a link from the RCD as necessary and regardless of whether the main supply is PME or not; because the end run of the spur would be some distance from the RCD, I would add a ground stake earth connection at the last lamp.

    You should not get a shock from the body of the lamps if all correctly wired so it might be worth checking the actual insulation of the lamps themselves.

    However, when the earth is a PME connection, you can get a small reading on a tester say, enough to make the light in screwdriver tester glow, because PME utilises the neutral connection of the mains supply. PME normally means an earth / ground stake isn't necessary; but I always run a ground stake and earth cable connected to the earth block in the consumer unit anyway.
     
    #12 Arquebus, Aug 9, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2018
  13. I've given up : unamused: called in an expert, well an electrician anyway :p
     
  14. Sounds very sensible :)
     
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  15. 7mA can kill....
    It's the volts that Jolt and the mills that kill.
     
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  16. What sort of lights are they?
    LED?
    Fluorescent?

    Sounds like the earth isn't actually at earth... or if it was you garden isn't earthed.
     
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  17. Explain please
     
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