Hi I have come off a R1, and the 749 (standard 03 model) is really nice, but the R1 was very front end biased, the 749 seems almost like it does not want to turn in, definitely harder work that the R1, very stable and holds a line really well like rails once your committed, but just seems hard to get into that line tipping in, is this normal 749 behavior? is it standard practice to drop the forks or raise the back end? Thanks
Have I misunderstood something here, I though the more fork above the top clamp would quicken the steering, but that guide says 4 lines showing for stage one and 3 lines showing for stage three? 3 lines showing would be pushing the forks down into the top clam wouldn't it? does that not slow the steering?
I am dubious about that link as there are some rookie errors in it. He says that the rod length for Ohlins between centres should be 285mm. This is impossible! I have had mine at 243mm for years and that is at the max end of extension. See here: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/749r-suspension-rod-length.62856/page-2 Due to that rookie error.....I don't believe a word of it!
Ricky, are you referring to an R tie-rod or the standard/S-model tie-rod? They are different lengths.
285mm works just fine on my 999S. Assuming you have normal 749 suspension, it can work for you too : o )
The final stages require flipping the adjustable steering head to the steeper setting, so it's not that straightforward.
Just looked I only have 3 lines showing on the forks so if I drop to 4 that might speed the steering up a touch
If you flip the yoke (not saying you should) you would not need to drop the front end so much. So yes, 3 or 4 rings with standard yoke position for quicker steering, and less rings showing if you go for the more drastic yoke mod. I reckon 285 at the rear and 4 rings is perfect for fast road riding.
the whole purpose of raising the front of the bike and indeed the rear of the bike is to raise the CofG......thus making it fall into corners.... it is also about creating a steeper swing arm angle something the ducati 1994-2012 suffer with because of the short percentage length of swing arm to wheel base. RTFI..
Come on then explain why...or you could just read the the whole Sec 8 article or indeed all other information put about at that time by the author Jason ETTER
all too familiar responses creamy...... Also by raising the rear and or lowering the forks you are taking away trail....from a bike with all too little to begin with.. which will quicken the steering very quickly right up to the point you have no front grip.... Which is why if the whole section 8 article or the DOS department of suspension articles are read thoroughly he recommends offset yokes to give back the trail...
Leave the rear ride height standard, 4 rings through the yokes and set the suspension up. Don't just poke more fork through the yoke and leave the rest to chance. Set the steering damper to the middle of its range and don't just pile in there... feel the bike, get used to it and then adjust to taste. *EDIT: If it's a 749 you mightn't have adjustment in your steering damper - if it's had an Ohlins one fitted then my words stand, otherwise disregard* Also if it is a Monoposto you have some fore/aft seat movement to play with, which will move your mass around the bike.
and........how adjustable is the headstock on a 10/1198... what fixed angle are most japanese bikes..and what about the panigale what angle is its headstock and why does the R have and adjustsble swing arm pivot....?
For the road I've never found I need to flip the headstock on a Ducati. Bobbling around with the forks has usually done it. Never needed to on 748. Has yielded benefits on SS and on 749/999. 999 required a lot of steering input before I had a tinker. Happy with it now. YMMV.
