Today was the day I chose to install the Zard Decat and all was going swimmingly well.. which made me nervous... Then when I was putting the header on the horizontal cylinder one of the nuts snapped the bolt off as I was screwing it back in. They were quite badly rusted and I'm kicking myself for not being patient, ordering two more and completing the install in a couple of days. I'm off to BSD on Friday to get it remapped so I was kinda in a rush to get it done... stupid stupid. Anyway I got it all back together and there is not too much of a leak so I think I'll risk it and ride up to BSD from London... But I'm worried it might be impossible to get the bolt out of the cylinder. I know the bolts screw out of the cylinder because that is how I got the bolts out as the nuts had rusted to the bolts. So I'll order two more bolts and nuts.. and hope Mark as some magical machine to get this bolt out of the cylinder. Also any advice on where to get spares from like these nuts and bolts? Sound amazing by the way
Gutted for you mate but not the end of the world should be able to re tap a new threaded bar in and a new M8 Nut. I know it's too late but after I wash mine I spray Lubrication oil on all threaded parts that I think I may need to remove in the future as well as brake pedal and gear selector.
you should be able to get that out....remove the other bolt and the pipe, cover the knackered bolt in wd40 and wire wool it....(to make sure a new nut goes on...) from what I can see from the amount of thread left...get a stainless nut and grind it to half the thickness, put that on right down as far as it will go and I would say probably see if you can get it a bit further on without stripping the thread, if you can. Then take another full size nut and bolt down on that and then the first on, get a spanner on that and then see if you can undo it.....I had the same problem with mine and then replaced with stainless studs...one of the first jobs I ever did when I had mine.
Thanks Ryan. Yeah I'm going to apply copper slip to each thread when I put things back together. I've done a little online research and found there are a few options to getting the stud out.. like welding another bolt to the stud and screwing it out.. so I'm not so worried now. I'm taking it into rossocorse.co.uk tomorrow and they are going to have a crack at getting it out before I go up to BSD Friday. I know the stud does screw out as I had it out so the welded bolt idea seems to make most logical sense to me. I happened to be driving past Winchester on Monday so I stopped in at Moto Rapido Ducati (details below) and picked up a couple of new studs and nuts. Craig there was very helpful and friendly. Craig Richardson – Parts / Accessories Moto Rapido Ducati DUCATI Dealer of the Year 2013 www.motorapido.co.uk Direct : 01962 873981 Main : 01962 877998 [email protected]
Yeah, but are they stainless studs....I wouldn't entertain putting any pig iron back in....stainless or titanium all the way.
Opps. that was a post form yesterday that just seemed to post today... Progress has been made and the stud is out. Comfysofa thanks for your advice, I tried the two bolt method but didn't have any luck... Then I got nervous I'd do more damage then good so I thought I'd leave it to the professionals... So I went to Rosso Corse – London Ducati Service Centre | The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance today in East London.. Ray top bloke.. managed to fit me in at very short notice and worked in the bike to get it the stud out as soon as I arrived.. turned it all around in a total of an hour He heated the cylinder head with a blow torch for about 5 minutes as he said the aluminium expands more than the stud. He then screwed on what looked like a drill chuck to grip the stud, then eased it out. The thread was a bit buggered which I think I might have down when I was screwing it back in. He cleaned that up and put two new studs in. He just used some he had in the shop. The ones I bought from Moto Rapido were actually too short. I must have got the wrong part number... So.. by a fine margin the bike is now prepare for my trip up tomorrow to BSD. I just have to put the Pipercross air filter in which I think might take me a couple of hours to do.. now off to research how to do that. Thanks all for you help... bullet dodged thankfully.
Just found these instructions for the air filter replacement. That should speed my effort up! Hypermotard 796 air filter- replacement guide. | Ducati Forum
Pipercross filter in with out any troubles!!! Off to BSD at 5am tomorrow! Can't wait. Out with the old in with the new.
Drill a hole in the top of the air filter cover as well! It's the done thing...you get more air in their as well....! Drill the hole with a hole saw....once you've done that smooth the edge off of the hole that's drilled. Essentially you're making the top of the cover the same as the "ducati performance" part.
Ah unfortunately I've missed the boat on that one.. bike is on the Dyno as we speak being caressed and pampered to liberate a few more ponies. I'll see if I can get some videos to show the processes.
Bugger - that would have gotten you more air through the filter....TBH you could do it after the dyno work has been done....just would have been better before...
Ahhh - dyno work....theres nothing like sitting watching your bike "getting done" and then knowing itll be like Christmas as soon as you open the throttle....mines going on next Saturday....
Ha ha... yep I can hear it going through it's paces now... I told market I'm keen to see it so he's going to get a bit of the work done and then 'invite' me to come and have a look. I'll ask about drilling the air box now however I suspect it's a bit late because he's been at it for 2 hours already.
Well, as I say once its done its going to have more fuel going into it anyway so an additional flow of air (albeit a small one wont weaken it that much, if anything....
Ride home was very enjoyable, smooth and grunty. Now you are all going to hate me. I don't have any photos. I think Mark might be protective of his process and hardware. Or perhaps be doesn't understand how weird we are wanting to video our bikes on a rolling road. I was banging through a bunch of work in the waiting room whilst Gill brought me cups of tea. I could hear the many runs Mark was doing on my bike waiting in anticipation, in suspense for him to invite me in to the magic room. Then I had a work call for half an hours and the half way though the call Mark appears on my bike for a road test ride. It was finished!!!!! I missed the rolling road. Mark took it for a ride and it was nice hearing someone ride off on my bike. Then he came back and walked me through the mapping process and the changes he made. I asked about drilling out he air box and he was not that bothered about it. He said it could make a difference but cautioned against going too far and using two cones or taking the top off the box. Ruins the air flow etc. He said it would give you a couple more bhp but kill the bottom end. I'll scan the graph of my new map and post it in case anyone is interested. All in all, Mark very capable, knows his bikes, has a soft spot for dukes, long racing pedigree. My bike. Well night and day from pre map but I knew pre map was very messy due to the full Zard system. After map it is now very smooth, very linear, just very rideable. I'm looking forward to getting out again on it again tomorrow and again the next day. Sounds bloody amazing. In terms of value for money. All for <£400, there is no question, should be done. I probably should have drilled the air box, if nothing else, just because I know it would breath a little better. I'll get my wife to video me this weekend (on the bike!!) so you can enjoy the sound.
Excellent. Glad it made a big difference. Drilling the airbox just makes it the same as th DP airbox lid that comes with the full termi system. Loads of threads on ducati ms. Some drill the bottom too but I didn't didn't, just done the lid as ducati performance sell them (only free)
