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V4 Help With Gear Lever Adjustment V4

Discussion in 'Panigale 899 / 959 / 1199 / 1299 / V2 / V4' started by Bootneck, Apr 16, 2020.

  1. Good morning, i have tried to adjust my gear lever on my v4 but I’m not having any luck, I understand there is 2 x ways to do it.

    [​IMG][/IMG]


    Option No1: Remove lower fairing & Rearset, unlock nut 10, remove bolt 11, turn link 12 out to desired length, reassemble, job done, unfortunately I cannot do this method as I cannot get bolt 11 undone as the head has been rounded off and it is Loctite to hell, so I attempted option 2.

    Option 2: OEM way as per the manual: Unlock nut 10, loosen rod 9 and turn it to allow the gear lever to adjust up/down.

    I can get rod 9 to turn but it is not moving the gear lever up/down, what is happening is rod 9 is just undoing on the thread 8 rather than just rotating to pull in/out link 12, as I turn rod 9 what ever I get at end 8 is just taken up on end 12, i.e. it is just moving as if it was one long thread with the rod in the middle and its not moving anything.
    What am I doing wrong, why is rod 9 undoing on the thread 8 and not just rotating to allow me to move link 12.

    Looking at the manual image the only thing i haven't tried is should the hex nut on the end of the rod 9 turn closest to nut 10 turn separately, i cant see that when i look at it and if you look at the larger image it appears to be part of the rod and should not turn separately and it is just there to turn the rod 9,

    I am lost on how to adjust my gear lever, any help is much appreciated.
    I hope ive explained myself clearly, its hard to explain what ive done.

    [​IMG][/IMG]
     
  2. I can't answer your specific question but I tried adjusting mine on the 959 as per the manual with the exact same results as you get with option 2! So I don't think your doing anything wrong. The only way is to get the bolt (11) out. I did this on the 959 but this then put the geometry out and it didn't change gear very well!
     
  3. The rod ‘9’ will have a right hand thread (probably the rose joint ‘12’ end) and a left hand thread (the quick shifter end ‘8’). By undoing the lock nut ‘10’, rotating the shaft ‘9’ should either lengthen or shorten the assembly at both ends. Or that is the way Ducati used to do it on my 748R. I have Spider rear sets on my V4 and the lever adjustment is way easier. I’m sure I know where my OE kit is so I’ll dig it out and see if can come up with a solution. Andy
     
  4. You’d think that’s the way it should work but I can assure you when I tried it on mine all it did was move the shift rod up and down not change the length!
     
  5. I completely agree. That is exactly what's happening on mine when I turn the shift rod. I worried now that as Ive move the rod along the shaft it may of mucked up my quick shifter, I just cant work out my when I follow the manual nothing happens to the gear lever. In my mind the rod should only rotate both ways to low link 12 to move in and out but I'm just getting the same as tower says. Why
     
  6. Well, there you go, every day is a school day. The V4 OE gear change rod has a right hand thread at both ends and I also found that the bolt ‘11’ in your diagram, appears to be solidly fixed in the rose joint, which means you would have release it by undoing the (now rounded) nut.
    If I understand what you are describing in your initial post correctly, the rod ‘9’ is free to turn at the QS end (on thread ‘8’) and at the rose joint thread. Both being right hand threads, it wouldn’t matter which way you turned the rod as it would not change the overall length which is what I believe you are finding.
    Unfortunately the QS is new to me and I know nothing about how the rod/QS interface is set. My dealer workshop is still answering emails so hopefully yours might be do the same and will be able to give you an answer. Sorry I can’t be of real help in this instance. Andy
     
  7. You are better off holding the link rod (i.e. preventing it from unscrewing from the body of the quick shifter) and then undoing the locknut at the spherical bearing end, having unbolted the bearing from the gear lever first, then turning the bearing such that it winds in or out of the link rod until you achieve the desired overall length. You may have to periodically loosely reattach the bearing back onto the gear lever mounting point to check it suits your desired position. Once happy tighten the locknut against the bearing and tighten the spherical bearing bolt onto the gear lever. Make a note (as quoted in the manual) of the stock length, so you can always reset it should you need to and so you have a datum to work with, whether that be shortening it or lengthening the entire linkage assembly (eye to eye). A few mm makes a big difference. Be advised that you should not wind out the spherical bearing to the point that there are only a few turns of it's threaded shaft, left inside the link rod. A couple of complete rotations in or out will have a marked effect on the angular position of the gear lever, so trial and error is the best policy here. Also be sure to apply threadlock to the bolt used to attach the bearing back onto the gear lever and if, as you say, you have started to wind the rod back out from the QS threaded shaft, you should ideally remove it and re-apply some fresh threadlock (Loctite 243). Hope this helps.
     
  8. Cheers Andy, yes your right I can move the shift rod both ways and nothing happens. What I cant understand is why does it say to do this in the manual and surely I cant be the only V4 rider that needs to adjust the gear lever height. I still believe that the shaft should just rotate and not move, the other end is where the adjustment takes place and should be the only part that actually moves in and out, i dont understand why the tod moves on the thread 8
     
    #8 Bootneck, Apr 16, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2020
  9. What i believe you are saying is option 1 I tried in my I initial post, if so that's not an option for me as I tried this and couldn't get bolt 11 out as its one difficult to get too and I've rounded it off as it loctite to hell, I'm annoyed as I shouldn't be doing this, why shouldn't the way in the manual work, ie remove the lower fairing, lossen the lock nut and turn the shift rod, tighten lock nut job done, I'm sure my option one is not the way to do it. I'm mega confused
     
    #9 Bootneck, Apr 16, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2020
  10. The manual is wrong, simple as that. Both threads are right hand threads so the technique in the manual doesn’t work. It was the same on my 1299 and its the same on the V4.

    Welcome to the land of Ducati, where the heads of fasteners are weaker than the threadlocker used on the threads. You’re probably going to have to grind off the head of the bolt, release the rose joint and then extract the remainder from the lever. Get a Dremmel if you haven’t already got one.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. Cheers Razz, so basically the only way to adjust the gear lever is by removing the bolt holding the rose joint and then adjusting it that way? Ill try and see if I can get this bolt out somehow and order a new one, it has been suggested to me that I should separate the gear lever from the rearset in order to get a better angle on the bolt holding in the rose joint? just one final question, as ive played around with the shift rod ie moved it up and down the shaft does it need to be back tight against the quickshifter end, Im hoping that after ive moved it, it hasn't mucked up the quickshifter
     
  12. Yep. That’s why a lot of the after market rearsets for the Pannis and V4s have additional adjustment built in. CNC Racing for the 1299 and Rizoma for the V4 both do. Releasing the gear lever from the hanger by undoing the pivot bolt is sound. Put some masking tape over the swing-arm whilst you work.
    Get a better quality bolt when you replace the old one and use blue loctite as per Topo’s post.
    Yes, lightly tighten the rod against the QS unit. When I changed the rearsets on my 1299 I had to use a longer rod, so had to unscrew the rod from the QS. <expletive> I recon the factory had used a whole tube of loctite on that thread! Thankfully on the V4 that thread moves fairly easily.
     
  13. Cheers Razz and to everyone who has commented on my issue. I think what I'm going to do is leave it for now and order a new bolt so when I do attempt it I can change the rounded off bolt at the same time I attempt to lower the gear leaver, I'm also going to look at changi g the rear sets to after market ones, I know there is a lot of choice out there but as I'll never take this on a track it will be a bit of adjustability and looks that will swing along with price cheers once again for all your help.
     
  14. Good luck Bootneck. As I mentioned, the method I described is by far and away the easiest solution. It's not ideal but there you have it. If you want a decent bolt, try ACCU fasteners, they carry the dome head bolt you need with a shallow profile head, that will do the job perfectly. You just need a dab of Loctite no more and 10Nm. Just to re-iterate, you should remove the link rod from the QS body and clean the ridiculous amounts of factory Loctite off the threads (now that you have cracked the rod from the QS), then apply a SMALL dab of fresh Loctite to it, before screwing the rod back onto the body. It's a ten minute job, if that. Incidentally if you unbolt the rearset for better access and apply some local heat to the gear change lever bolt that retains the spherical bearing, you may find it comes out a lot easier. If you really get stuck and the head of the bolt is badly rounded (not surprising as OEM bolts are made of Swiss Cheese) you can always use an 'Easy Out' bit to extract it. If all else fails you will have to grind off the head and then use two nuts to remove the remains of the bolt, but that is really a last resort.
     
    #14 Topolino, Apr 16, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2020
  15. I can attest to ACCU fasteners. Great company to deal with and you can order as little as one bolt or a thousand. I've bought over 400 fasteners from them for my V4 build project, so as LiveFast says...all good advice.
     
  16. Thanks for the reply and for the link to the bolt, just to confirm that link.is for bolt 11 in my diagram, while I'm there I will order a torx bit, what size bit do I need, as I now need to completely remove the rearset to get to this bolt 11, when I do remove the rearset is it ok to complety unwind the link rod so I can take the whole think off and work on it away from the bike and as you suggest clean all the loctite off etc, and the just wind the link rib back on up the the QS and then just re assembly it all. regards
     
    #17 Bootneck, Apr 17, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2020
  17. Yes Bootneck, LiveFast is referring to that bolt (11). Not sure of torx bit size but a set of torx bits is inexpensive, so worth investing in some. Ultimately this is a pretty straightforward job, so take your time and you will be fine.
     
  18. Cheers it's as I said before I'm not that technical great hence already rounding off the bolt, apologises for the amount of questions but I want to make sure if I starting taking off the rearset etc I dont mockup the QS or anything else
     
  19. Yep - bolt 11 - as Topo says - invest in a set of torx bits - you can never have enough tools!

    But if you want the full details click on the technical specifications link on the Accu site - Torx Size X30
     
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