1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

How to fit Carbon Heat Shield - or What to do when "Working from Home"

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by nev749bip, Mar 22, 2013.

  1. Just replaced my metal heat shield with a lovely Carbon one to go with the other carbon stuff I’ve already fitted. Thought I’d just post this step by step guide as I’m pretty sure a few people buying new 2013 Pani’s with the ugly shield could be changing them soon.

    First find yourself a spare hour or two. Or as I did, give yourself a long lunch while your “Working from Home” on a Friday :wink:

    Removal and fitting the shield can be done without removing the rear sub frame or removing the tank as follows :-
    Step 1 - Remove seat and remove the tank retaining plate

    Step 1.jpg
    Step 2 – Remove ignition key guard and tank retaining bolts


    Step 2.jpg
    Step 3 – Remove the 2 lower Torx bolts holding the rear sub-frame to the engine cylinder head. The left hand side is a bit tricky due to the Suspension unit but with a T40 Torx socket, extension and hinged ratchet wasn’t too difficult.

    Step 3.jpg
    Step 4 – Loosen but don’t remove the 2 upper Torx bolts that secure the rear sub frame to the bike. Loosening allows the rear sub frame to be lifted to allow sufficient access to the heat shield to remove it.

    Step 5 – Gently lift the rear sub frame, just check the slack on the wiring for the ECU located under the rubber bung in the sub frame so the block connector doesn’t come off.

    Step 6 – Place a suitable sized piece of timber between the tyre and the rear tailpiece to hold the sub frame in position. (Note best to put the bike in gear and weight down the rear brake so the wheel doesn’t move !!!!!)


    Step 4 (2).jpg Step 5.jpg
    Step 7 – Remove the Lambda sensor from the exhaust. Access the 17mm nut from underside of the exhaust shield.
    Step 8 – Remove the 3 bolts on the shield and lift it clear.
    Step 9 – If you are OCD like me, give the exhaust and damn good polish before fitting the new shield !!!!!

    Step 6.jpg Step 7.jpg Step 8.jpg
    Step 10 – Fit new shield and put everything back together in reverse order.
    Note : twist the lambda sensor anti clockwise a fair few turns, hold it then screw it back in the exhaust. This way the wiring should end up true and not twisted when tightened home.


    Step 9.jpg Step 10.jpg
    Step 11 – Polish your original cover and place it on E-bay, there’s bound to be plenty of new Panigale owners wanting it !!!

    Now then, what’s the red bitch asking for now, a Carbon key cover and Carbon air duct covers, Jesus better get back to “Working from Home” to earn some money for them !!!! :rolleyes:

    Step 1.jpg

    Step 2.jpg

    Step 3.jpg

    Step 4 (2).jpg

    Step 5.jpg

    Step 6.jpg

    Step 7.jpg

    Step 8.jpg

    Step 9.jpg

    Step 10.jpg
     
    #1 nev749bip, Mar 22, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013
    • Like Like x 5
  2. Ahhh great stuff, how is the seat bolted on?

    plus the 13 bikes have plastic covers over the rear cylinder head also, not sure if this may add additional steps also.

    Im hopefully going to look at mine tomorrow so will update if there's anything to add.
     
  3. Glad you got it sorted. Tank didn't need to come off then? Looks good
     
  4. Also what size torx bit do I need?
     
  5. Seat just has one retaining bolt to remove then lift up from the front to take it off, pretty easy. Step 3 requires TX40 socket, extension and ratchet. As mentioned left hand lower bolt is trickiest. Rest of the bolts are hex heads.

    have seen pics of those head covers don't think they'll get in the way but if it were mine I'd take them off anyway but guess its personal preference.

    thanks Nelly for the hints.

    good luck.
     
    #5 nev749bip, Mar 22, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013
  6. Don't you have a full set? :biggrin:
     
  7. Strangely no... Which is a worry, I've got smaller sizes in the form of screwdrivers and 2 bigger sockets... Somewhere, hopefully one of those will be the right size assuming I can find them
     
  8. And I thought they were moving back towards an easy bike to work on....and this obsession with torx bolts is annoying

    good post tho, reckon quite a few will be following the instructions
     
  9. Spent the last few hours doing this, few things to note on a MY13 bike:-


    1) I propped the back of the tank up with a wedge between the tank and airbox which in turn allows the subframe to be raised further


    2) I disconnected the earth and power to the tank to help with point 1


    3) I removed ALL subframe bolts this allow the whole subframe to be lifted in parallel upwards and give more clearance


    4) The MY13 heat shield is much bigger and is a real pig to remove... Which is why I needed to do the above steps


    5) with my carbon heat shield (conquest carbon) I had a series of thermal resistant washers to install either side of the heat shield, this is where I spent most of my time cursing! There simply isn't enough clearance to hold the washers in place under the shield when trying to fit the screw... My novel solution was to tie each washer in place with several pieces of thread, fit the screws but before I tightened everything up snapped and removed the thread.


    6) MY13 bikes also come with rear cylinders covers which cause issues unless you disconnect the entire subframe.


    7) Worth taping the lambda sensor up also to protect the cable when removing and also watch the power feed to the tank, it's a tight fit so be careful
     
  10. Ah sorry mate should have mentioned the carbon washers. I just super glued the ones that go on the underside of the shield to keep them in place. Didn't use the ones that go on the top of the shield as not enough thread left on one of the bolts. So I reckoned if the original fit didn't,t have any washers then should be ok.

    anyway glad you managed it

    any photos would be good to see how it looks with the cylinder covers on the 13 bike ?
     
  11. A dab of greae, or better still silicone helps keep the washers in place.
     
  12. Tried grease but with my big maulers there isn't enough clearance
     
  13. thanks for the info guys i just took the exhaust springs off and tried to remove the exhaust much easier way youve explained how to
     
  14. I removed the plastic engine covers as well as they just looked grim.

    Instead of the heat shield I have my zorst wrapped at the mo and i think it looks quite neat. I haven't ridden it in the height of summer though so cant really comment on the heat side of things.
     
  15. Thanks for posting this, its really useful. Can't believe how much is required just to fit that one cover although the amount it took me to fit the R&G tail tidy it unfortunately doesn't surprise me :frown:
     
  16. Thanks for posting, I have the oversize exhaust cover on my late 2013 and would love to change it for the aftermarket carbon one. This might just give me regading the confidence to go ahead, although I would still replace with the Conquest Carbon oversize as I think the heat issue is more important to me then looks alone.
     
  17. I'll be picking up my 2014 1199 in a couple of weeks. I presume it'll have the large plastic heat shield. I want to change it to carbon, which looks best, the small or the large one?
     
  18. Why do you want to cover up your hot Italian lay friend when you can have her naked as nature intended.

    Junk all the plastic heat covers and expose her beauty...
     
  19. Go for the small, my back side would need to be on fire before I fitted that ugly large one. lol.
    The heat is not that bad any way,
     
Do Not Sell My Personal Information