I've just noticed after a clean that the chain on my track bike (Triumph Daytona) is kinked at the point where its joined. It runs smoothly over the sprockets but then comes out kinked like this. I can straighten it buy pushing it back up and theres enough friction there to keep it in line but it kinks again at the next sprocket. Any thoughts?
Bugger. Thats what I was thinking it might be but didnt want to admit it! Can I just replace the joining section or is it a whole chain job?
It's got a tight spot at the rivet link. It may have been pressed together to hard when being joined. You might get away with replacing the riveted link with a new one. These days most chains are supplied with small spacers or shims to fit between the plates when riveting the joining link to prevent overtightening
Yep, just the link. 30min job. Grind heads off with dremel and use breaker to remove link. As Derek says they come with a wire spacer usually to prevent over crimping the plates.
OK. This is all new to me! What fun What do you mean by flare dimensions? Its got 520 XSR written on the plate. I guess thats the width of the chain (520) but does the XSR mean anything?
whats the problem with split links, if it good enough for crossers surely it would be good enough for road bikes.
Depends on power etc. used the, no probs on my monster race bikes, but wouldn't use on a bike with that much torque and power tbh. Although it never stopped the 80's superbikes..
When you flare the end of the pin it gets bigger dunnit? The dimensions tell you what sort of diameter the flare should be when done.......The list above are generally all 520 chains and the flares are all the same size, so I would start with the smaller dimension first (with a decent riveter, you should be able to go back to them and do them a bit more). If yours is DID (can't really see) then you can go nearer to the larger dimension. The main thing to do is watch out for the flare splitting at the edges....Here's one done proper like......
Once I get my flare tool tight I give it a quarter turn you can only just see a slight flare but they dont come off .
My ZVM ones are about £4.50 each...........so the cost isn't really the issue...........it's the bl**dy hassle of having to do them!
It's a minefield out there! I can find what looks like the right part on eBay but I can't find any explanation of what the letters on the chain mean. I'm guessing it's the size of the pins? Don't want to get the wrong one if anyone knows about such things? Edit. Ok it looks like the letters are just manufacturers part numbers?
The letters are the grade. But like S or R on a bike. Ones better than the other. When related to chains you need the exact same link-so same letters.
